So, Who Wants a B.B.C. ..?...(Or, Fake it, till you make it!)

The gen 1 is racking ruff.

Its always done so, from the get go, as it was a bit of a Bitsa Blaster.

Frame was TM, upper slide from a Guarder kit, silver inner barrel also guarder. When i picked it up from AH, it was ruff to rack and cycle. We lubed it, and was told to give it some use to wear it in.

I sat and cycled it, watching tv a 100+ times, and relubed.

Its still stiff.

It can lock back, in the rear position, with normal firing.
Need to tap the rear of the slide forwards, to close it.

Taking the top slide off, there is a bit of movement in the metal parts that grab onto the slide. Off to AH 2morrow, to get it looked at…

Might grab a CZ-75, while im there…grips are also avail on ali express…!!

There is a hang on gotta go the shed and remember myself that may help…

Dang it can’t remember the name just crunched a heap of bookwork and my brain fell out.
@Friendly_Fire you’d know for fitters and getting things to wear in and run smoothly then remove lube and away you go. Bugger :thinking:

this is beyond lubes salvation. ( that’s what she said!!)

There are two bits of metal installed, within the slide, that grab onto the frame rail. It appears they move , at times, when they shouldn’t.

If they are aligned properly, smoothish actioning.
Misaligned, impediment and seizing.

Its a bitsa…

Ah ok Friendly Fire stand down code 1688. Was just throwing it out there. :+1:

Yeah, we’ve discussed this particular problem of the stcky slide over the Al Capone. :wink:

Should be a pretty easy fix… my guess is Wong was too busy looking forward to his lunchtime noodles to do the assembly job properly back at the factory. :roll_eyes:

@BME Yell out if you get no joy and we’ll apply some aircraft technology to the issue… i.e. glue, chewie and spit. :rofl:

Could apply that Dutch pilot, I think that’ll work

:rofl: :rofl:

Lapping compound. For real steel it’s usually a nono because of tolerances are adhered to.

Blasters it might work. Only an idea if you get a Wong made one on Monday.

It sounds like a binding issue because something that’s supposed to be fixed isn’t… :rofl::rofl:

Ah Chinese manufacturing… how they brought about the demise of Oz manufacturing ain’t no mystery… all down to money, cos skill and quality sure ain’t the reason.

Back in the hands of AH.

Their build, they can pull it down , and fix up what’s wrong with it.

Bit of a drive, to their new place…

That’s the way. Please unfk this jaloppy you sold me.

:rofl: :rofl:

Hmmmm…
Interesting…

My gen 1 Burton, really wants to get into gear…

It now pretty much only fires full auto…!!

I ve tried swapping mags, pulling it down, giving a general clean and lube…but no fix.

What causes GBB’s to go full auto.?

Minimal use…

I’d be tearing it down and giving it a damn good lube with gun oil… probably hasn’t had one from the factory.

If that doesn’t help see if it’s a worn or broken sear… seeing as how it hasn’t seen much use I’d be thinking the latter. :man_shrugging:

I’m sure the GBB afficionados can offer more help to you. :+1:

I think there is something funny going on, with the trigger bar, on the RHS…with the custom real wood RE grips…

It was a bit weird.

Sometimes, the double action would not work.

I deduced, that LEFTwards pressure on the trigger, would cause it to operate normally.

RIGHTWARDS pressure, and the hammer would not cycle.
It was like the safety was on.

When i pulled the right grip off, ( with the funky little spring, that puts upwards pressure on the trigger bar) it would cycle.

Grip back on, back to the issues.

I think the Wooden grips might need some relieving, around the trigger bar.
It seems to wanna flex out a little to reset properly…maybe the proximity of the grips stops it.

Maybe not resetting properly, leads to full auto fire.?
@roksolid, have you seen that before.?

It didnt seem to have that problem, with the plastic RE grips.

I’ll give it a try, when i get home

Sounds like the grip could be fouling the trigger bar. Might need a bit of clearancing.

one way to go full auto though…!!

How long it lasts though…is a different question…

The original gen 1 burton slides used to blow up for exactly that reason…

they had to remake / re-release the slides with a different strength alloy…

Whoops…

I reckon you are on the money there, the trigger bar not resetting properly might prevent the seer from resetting causing full auto?
Neat little trick if that is what you want!

Yep…100% correct…!

I now have, with the turn of one screw, a full auto / semi auto Gen1 Burton…!!

Its all about the Top Right Screw.

PLASTIC RE grips…no interference. Go screw full tight, and semi auto all day.

WOOD RE grips…screw full tight = Full auto…always.

WOOD RE grips…back it off half a turn…semi auto…always.

Go figure…some trigger bar pressure anomoly, with the real steel Wood grips…!!

like rachael zegler… Weird?? Weird!!

Guess it makes my Gen1 Burton, worth even more…!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Not that im gonna test the full auto longevity of the KJC upper slide…

My gen 2 WE tech Burton was designed for full auto, and has a selectable switch position…

Maybe shim under the offending screw so you can tighten it down without causing any issues. Gear shims spring to mind. :thinking:

Has to be better than removing material from the grip.