STG44 and MP40

yeah I was looking at a vector for $50 on gold coast but watching Guido’s video pulling one apart I’m like, yeah no lol. way too much effort for a beginner I think, a thousand screws n just looks like a lot of effort to be trying to learn on…

baby steps… baby steps lol

Probably not the best one to start out with, only a Gen 8 and still pretty easy… but compared to an M4, tricky.

The good thing about an old Well M401 is the clear receiver… you can see the internal components and how they work. Decent hitters back in the day, top of the bunch too at around 270-280. :+1:


Only issue might be spare parts availability.

2 Likes

update: they requested I send my MP40 back for them to look at and run through their chrono and repair under warranty if necessary. so posted it off just before.

probably won’t hear anything back about it until mid-late next week depending on how busy they are I assume.

will keep you guys posted on the results

cheers for everyone’s advice :call_me_hand:t2:

Gotta love auspost

mp40 return delayed due to auspost incompetence :roll_eyes::rage::face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

I dunno…

Seeing as how AustPost handles around I.6 million parcels plus a day Australia wide, there are bound to be errors.

I tend to cut 'em a bit of slack… I got out of mail delivery just before parcel Armageddon hit after Covid lockdown. Some of my old mates who still deliver are climbing the walls over the sheer volume of parcels that have come from our obsession with online purchasing.

And I know from experience that individual users tend to not see the big picture and think that their delivery is the only one AustPost has to deal with. :man_shrugging:

My delivery guy was the opposite he asked me to buy more so he could get the overtime to feed the family :rofl: :+1:

yeah I get that I’m obviously not the only customer but a good example is my latest order, express postage, was marked as ready for processing, tracking still hasn’t been updated after 3 days, with express postage coming from only a few suburbs away, I should have received it by now, usually I would’ve had it the next day

but then again, you’re right to an extent about the volume of online order’s increasing exponentially post COVID, but even post COVID I usually get my express postage items within two days of shipping, even from interstate so it’s a little confusing the inconsistency

1 Like

This is the battery i use ? was included.

8.4v , NI-MH a/soft battery.

Charge, and connect through the one port.

Available on ebay , or through overseas ordering…

1 Like

yeah I was using the one that came with it but was looking for one that might last a bit longer, more efficient I mean.

cheers for posting that link, I’ll have a gander n see what other ones I can find

thanks

That’s 8.4v

Lipos are 7.4v, or 11.1v

I wouldn’t run a 11.1v on it, so using a 7.4v is less voltage (marginally)…

2 Likes

yeah I’d picked up a 7.4v Turnigy but was a bit too long to fit inside, might see what other options there is for the 8.4v, just want a better brand one that will last a bit longer in gameplay

1 Like

8.4v is NiMh…different metal chemistry. Higher voltage, but larger.
7.4v is LiPo…smaller voltage, but smaller battery.

It’s all about battery capacity, as to how long a battery lasts…
That varies, from battery to battery.
Check the stats, on each battery…MAh, is milli amp hours…

1 Like

Yea that’s right, back in my old Tamiya RC car days they were all Nimh or NiCad.

Longer to charge, larger in size as they couldn’t output what current Lithium batteries can.
Lithium or Lipo(Lithium Polymer) 1 cell is lower voltage but higher ampreage. Hence you can get more grunt out of a smaller size battery and it lasts longer.

Have a read through this when you get some time Batteries - NiMH Vs LiPo - Which is better? (hobbiesdirect.com.au)

Lipos are better but you can’t draw down less than 3v per cell or you go kaboom which is always a crowd pleaser :laughing:

I’m starting to think it’s a dodgey battery now, first mag will get around 330fps with a few lower, next mag and following mags drop off considerably and achieve random low fps, hence looking for alternative options

I wouldn’t have expected fps to drop off after a single mag, surely should get a few mag’s in before the battery is depleted

just hoping to find something to keep the fps up and consistent and last more than a few mag’s cuz only lasting one mag at high fps is a bit shitty

Battery won’t make any difference to fps.
All the battery will do, is affect rate of fire.

FPS is all about the air seal, spring , barrel length, oring etc.
ROF is determined by the battery…which is why a 11v battery( if the wires can handle it) increases ROF.

If you have fps variations, from 330 to 130, something is wrong.
New gels, freshly brewed?

You shouldn’t be getting more than about 30fps variation, if all is well…
.

1 Like

How does it sound…?
Is it noticeably slowing down.?
If the battery is barely functioning, and struggling to get past compression, that would slow down fps….

Like starting a car with a flat battery, it slows down really quickly, and struggles to turn over.

A battery that’s a few years old, could be the issue…do you have any others that you can try.?

Yea something not right with this thing. It’s not battery or it won’t cycle. I’m no expert but something is up.

I agree with BME…

Hey… that rhymes and almost sounds like a political catchphrase. :joy:

It’s not going to be your battery. I guarantee there’s a logical mechanical reason for your blaster’s inconsistent FPS.

If it was mine I’d be looking at nozzle positioning / tappet spring efficiency, making sure the spring’s pulling the nozzle into the t piece consistently. When the nozzle’s forward the tappet spring’s under less tension and I’ve seen tappet springs almost bottomed out because they’re slightly too long. Easy to check, push the nozzle in, release. It should snap forward positively and repeatedly. Check the rubber’s securely glued onto the nozzle too.

If that checks out okay, maybe look at how your t piece seats against the nozzle. There’s a reason why most inner barrels run springs in front of the t piece… to put pressure on it to seat it correctly against the gearbox. Any movement along the barrel line there will definitely show up with inconsistent velocities.

I was just thinking maybe the battery wasn’t holding the charge hence the drop off,

but having said that I haven’t noticed it sound like it was slowing down

gels were fresh brewed Gladiator’s as they recommended, also tried AKA’s a week old double rinsed, predator ultras, separate days with full charge to battery prior. AKA’s had the best result to get the initial 330fps

no other batteries to test unfortunately.

just feels like one mag at 330 with a few lower than all bets are off any additional mags used

Don’t forget to ring the store, and let them know what’s happened…

For a freshly serviced/ inspected blaster…not really acceptable…