yeah I remember reading one of your posts about it. sounds like a pain in the ass you had to go through. still just thinking about it, it’s write up sounds impressive and the reviews from the guys on here makes it all the more tempting
are those orange caps on them hard to take off? I think I read someone say they’re a pain to get off without damaging it, I mean I read some of those orange flash hiders aren’t removable
Yeah it’s definitely a slurry of a mixing pot when it comes to aftermarket accessories
Can’t do anything but take the gamble and see what turns up in the mailbox.
Sometimes we get lucky, but more often than not we get scammed
It is now! Older model like mine had a black plastic handguard. Thinking of buying one to remedy that. Also good enough and cheap enough it would t hurt the wallet much.
There were two versions available - wood and black nylon. Wood version had blow back connected. Wasn’t connected in nylon. Got done by the J12’s that Hamish and another guy from the old forum were using at the old Rochedale field and picked both up on the way home. Oh the days of disposable income.
Dragged the J12’s out of the cupboard. Performance of the one with wooden furniture has dropped right off to 160fps, black grip still running at 260fps. Added to the maintenance list
I have yet to see a “value line” double bell ak. Same gearbox as the metal ak but now in a cheaper nylon body. So I won’t be commenting on the body.
The gearbox in DB AKs is good. The main problem for CQB is they are pretty hot out of the box. most double bell AKs I have seen especially those with a full length barrel are about 360fps in semi or on 7v. Full auto on 11v drops to about 320-340.
If there is a AK-SU variant (same shape/length as J12) I would recommend that as the length is far better for CQB, and the cylinder is closer to correct volume for the shorter barrel.
They are still going to be a bit hot for most CQB fields though, so a spring change is going to be on the cards. If you are putting the effort in, might as well give it a radius, check shimming (usually not bad on DB) and change the piston and head.
The stock piston has a double oring head, which has a good seal and is fine with bigger springs, but with an m90/m100 they are a bit tight in cylinders, and can lead to piston not making it home in time, and loss of fps. I would say just change the head but the hole is too large and aftermarket heads will float around a bit.
A good piston, and head is ideal if dropping the power in DB aks.
Also ditch the sector gear delayer, it just isn’t required.
Never thought 7 years ago I would be recommending mods to drop the fps of a blaster!
Speaking of AK’s… I found two metal Top Covers if anyone is looking for some.
One is the plain metal with factory replica ribs, the other has an integrated picatinmy rail on top
No good for the JM J12 style with the pivoting interlock mechanism, but will fit the CYMA/RX/Alpha King etc
Any one of them is what I use for my cqb stuffs. All of them rebuilt obviously and the ldt mp7 is great if you can get it to work properly (I’ve also added an extended barrel and it’s running a dk13 hopup.