ZY UZI Tear Down & Upgradesp90

This is a bit of a guide for the teardown and possible upgrade to the latest ZY UZI gel blasters that everyone’s red hot on at the moment… big thanks to @RokSolid @Maiphut & @BME for providing the gel blaster… very much appreciated. :pray:

No review as such… BME’s pretty much covered that beautifully in another thread. This is more of a rough and ready guide for gearbox removal… if you’re game. :wink:

Initial Performance Stats

Put through the chrono in stock trim, this UZI’s hitting around the 135-140FPS mark… a little lower than expected and less than the chrono results on X-Force’s review, which was around 175FPS stock

The Teardown

A small Phillips screwdriver and a pin punch is all you’ll pretty much need… but be aware, there are quite a few small screws to remove ( 15, in fact! ) and keep track of and they’re not all interchangeable, so grouping of parts with relevant screws as they’re removed is highly recommended. Lots of photos to refer to on reassembly is also a good idea. :+1:

First things, remove the magazine and top cover, unscrew the front collar and remove the outer barrel, exposing the inner barrel.

Remove the large takedown pin located at the rear of the grip just behind the safety switch.

This allows the grip assembly to be removed. Unclip the two wiring connectors.

Next step is to remove the rear sight assembly. Remove the two screws on the back of the end plate.

Then punch out the small knurled pin located in the side of the rear sight.

One the pin is removed, you can access the spring which locks the rotating aperture sight into the selected position.

The whole rear sight assembly can then be removed by sliding rearward.

Next, remove the two screws located on the top of the front sight plate and remove the plate.

This gives access to a third screw… remove it and the front sight assembly can be removed.

Remove the four screws which hold the inner barrel guide plate in place and gently pry the plate free from the rear end. Take care at this stage to not damage the battery wiring located in the notch.

With the inner barrel guide plate removed, the gearbox can be lifted free. Slight outward flexing of the receiver shell is needed, and the box can only be partially removed from the receiver at this point. Take care not to foul or pinch the wiring and two connectors to the trigger assembly while removing the gearbox.

The gearbox is gearbox is now free and clear of the receiver.

The Gearbox

Looks to be 100% proprietry, similar to the Le Hui MP9 gearboxes in size, so basically a pistol gearbox with very little cylinder volume.

What jumps out at you immediately is how incredibly under volumed for the length of the inner barrel this blaster seems to be, which comes in at a surprising length of around 25cm!!

By comparison, an MP9 inner barrel comes in at around 10cms and that’s hitting around 210FPS. Testing different length barrels on the MP9 showed that with the very small cylinder volume, any increase in length dropped FPS markedly, so that long barrel would be giving horrendous VE and probably causing vacuuming and gel drag.

The first modication therefore is to the inner barrel length, i.e. shorten it by 8cms, the inner barrel will finish about a centimetre into the front outer barrel assembly. Should increase the FPS significantly, with a new inner barrel length of around 18cms.
Still not ideal VE but about as short as it can practically be. The inside diameter of the outer barrel is 10mm, which shouldn’t create problems with the 7.5mmID inner.

Shortening the barrel from the front is easiest but does mean losing the rubber hop up. It CAN however be shortened at the t piece end by tapping the plastic collar off.

NOTE : If the barrel’s shortened at the t piece end, it will require modification as does the receiver. The collar has a moulded detent strip which prevents rotarion and a corresponding groove in the inner barrel. To refit the chopped barrel into the collar, a flat is required to be filed on it to clear the strip.

There is also a machined groove in the factory barrel, about 9.0mm in diameter (see photo). The corresponding hole in the receiver is also 9.0mm. With the end cut off and that groove no longer there, the receiver needs to have that hole opened out to 9.5mm for the two shell halves to close up on reassembly.

My plan is to shorten at the hop up end and fit an adjustable 11mm hop up. The outer barrel will need to be bored out to around 12mm to accomodate the hop up.

Shortened inner barrel.

Reassemble everything in the reverse order to the steps above. Simples!:ok_hand:

The Result

Putting a few through the chrono to check for any improvement, the shortened barrel showed a gain of about 30FPS. Not stellar but a gain just the same. It’s now sitting on about 170FPS, still slightly lower than X-Force’s review results but closer to their demonstrated 175FPS.

The test gels may have been a little old, so fresh gels brewing as I write to eliminate innacuracies and variables. After that, if it’s still low the gearbox comes apart to see if there’s anything to be improved there, maybe a spring upgrade / modification.

Stay tuned, more to come. :+1:

4 Likes

I would imagine that’s the same sized cylinder as what’s in the Uzi Pro but I was getting shy of 190fps out of that with it’s miniscule barrel, never actually measured it in hindsight, but it’s still get some reach and great accuracy with that fixed hopup.

190 - 200FPS would be good. :+1:

200 -210 would be better. :wink:

Thanks for doing the work @Friendly_Fire
I’ll have no chance for an Uzi for a month or so as they are all gone!

I can tell you all with the utmost honesty… blaster externals are quite nice… I was not impressed with the performance of them… and right from the first one I fired I went “Haha that sounds massively under volume!”

You can just hear these things after a while.

With the minimal inspection I had of them, I think an XYL hopup barrel would be perfect, and likely finish so the hopup can be adjust with the top cover off… also better volume with a 11cm of barrel.

Inside the gearbox I really can’t guess what could be upgraded… in AEP gearbox form the spring and orings are very likely smaller diameter than a normal AEG.

Keen to see what the community can do with these while I wait for the next batch in about a months time

1 Like

I did get around 180-190, out of my Ooozi…

That was with fresh i hobby blues.
There was some variation though…

Small cylinder syndrome…

1 Like

I’'m considering shortening the barrel a little more.

As it is now though it just makes it to the outer barrel, which it needs to do for stability.

I’ve got a few ideas cooking. :+1:

That’s not bad for stock… mine was hovering around 140 ootb.

Haven’t checked FPS with a 7.4v yet… only 11.1v… shouldn’t matter but we all know it does, especially on a full auto only unit. :person_shrugging:

1 Like

I honestly havnt even tested mine yet so it will be interesting to see for comparison of ootb performance

Oooh I’m getting the warm and fuzzies. :smiling_face: This is what I love seeing. Bloody great work FF!

You are gonna tear it down and have a little peeky inside yeah? I’m curious if the new gen of AEP have more sturdy internals.

Yeah, the box is coming apart tomorrow. I’ll post updates to this thread as it happens. Today was just testing barrel length concepts. :+1:

Like most blasters, once you’ve had 'em apart once, they’re easy. It’s just working out what needs to come off first time apart. :rofl:

With this one, the foregrip came off and so did the main grip… it was only later on that I realised they don’t have to. :joy:

I like being the crashtest dummy… good fun! :sunglasses:

3 Likes

Looking pretty good so far…

All metal gears…
Nylon shell is good quality…

Much better than the plastic glocks of old…

Also…
Looks good , dressed up…

(EBB on Right)…outer barrel now polished.

2 Likes

the adjustable external hopup sounds the go … would look good as an extension if you can ream out the outer sufficiently.

1 Like

ill send mine back to you for some R&D? :slight_smile:

I know your busy though …

1 Like

Hold onto it for now, it will just sit here for around 2-3 weeks at the moment… I have suspended taking on jobs for the next couple weeks so I can catch up on the jobs I already have… and get some of the new blasters ready.

Would be good to look into one and find out. @Friendly_Fire is definitely gonna beat me to it!

I had always decided mine was in the second batch, I knew they were all going to disappear quick.

Being AEP I suspect they will be a bit limited to what they are capable of, but I am sure some improvement can be done.

2 Likes

You are most welcome and the plan comes together thanks to @RokSolid and @BME .

Gotchya again :rofl: :rofl: Thanks for the call, hilarious. You deserve a treat now and then for your community support, knowledge, skills are amazing and makes for great reading for me.

I’ve seen you give away blasters for free. Hold up what’s this guy got, nothing. I’m going to change that situation. :australia: :+1:

You may well see me give away a few more very soon. :wink: It was fun to pay it forward and help out some of the peeps on here.

Also made room for more blasters and guitars! :joy:

Biggest regret is that I can’t ship one over to you @Maiphut because of your state’s ownership restrictions. :person_shrugging:

1 Like

Yea bit of a bummer about that. But it is what it is. Thought about it for few weeks I’d like one of those APC9 then, hang on I can’t fit more in but nothing stopping me from partly funding what you deserve. Mum’s the word haha

I would of like to have seen the look on your face, wtf is going on here. Merry Christmas haha

1 Like

Good things happen in 3’s…

Thats the last of it…

For now…!!

:laughing: :rofl: :smiley:

Time to pull this gearbox again and get stuck into it. :+1:

A pre-test with fresh gels returned a resut of around 170FPS.

Yanking that puppy out took five minutes this morning… amazing how easy it is when you’ve been there, done that. :joy:

Gearbox Tear Down

First thing, get all the wiring out of the way. ZY use hot melt glue to keep everything neat… ugh! :face_with_symbols_over_mouth:
Pick that off.
Next step is to free the mag prime switch, one screw out.

Using longnose pliers, very carefully pull the mag terminals free, taking not of their orientation. A word of warning, they were very tight.

With those components free the wiring loom can be freed from the receiver and pulled out of the way… note the priming switch and positive terminal are separate.

Remove the tappet return spring.

Remove the screws from the front of the receiver and pull out the inner barrel. Note that the inner barrel is in a sleeve which locates in the t piece with a detent moulding Gen 8 style. This can be removed and the barrel shortened at the t piece end. There is a moulded detent in the 9.5mm bore of the t piece collar, so a flat will have to be filed on the inner barrel end to allow it to slide into the collar.

Note also that the diameter of the aperture of receiver where the inner barrel exits is NOT 9.5mm, it’s about 9.0mm. It fits the standard barrel with the machined groove fine, but that hole needs to be opened out to 9.5mm to allow closure of the gearbox shell halves with the shortened barrel 9.5mm diameter.

Remove the rest of the receiver screws and carefully pry the clamshell apart, keeping an eye on the piston spring as you go. There is no quick release on the spring but fortunately the spring retainer keys into the box shell on both sides of the receiver shell, so it’s not likely to go boing on disassembly.

With the box separated, the motor can be pulled out leaving a metal geared clean gearbox with no wiring to get in the way. Interesting that the motor gear isn’t bevelled but a straight cut brass or bronze gear, pretty standard for an AEP.

All the internal components laid out

The nylon piston has a full metal rack, albeit tiny. One tooth removed on the pickup side, a fairly standard nylon piston head and, surprisingly, what appears to be a decent green o ring.

The cylinder is alloy and has an inside bore of 20mm. Length is 45mm, but swept volume would be more like 40mm, so not much volume to work with. The nylon cylinder head appears to be permanent in the cylinder and can’t be removed, the spigot diameter for the nozzle measures 5.3mm, the nozzle is proprietry with a moulded lug that locates in the tappet plate.

The piston spring has a wire diameter of about 0.9mm, is 95mm in length unsprung and has a coil rate of about 5 coils per inch in the old scale. Outside diameter is about 10mm, the retainer will accept a spring with an I.D. of no less than 7.0mm, the piston itself will accept a spring with an O.D. no larger than about 11.0mm.

The main drive gear ( it ain’t really a bevel gear ) is cast iron with very small teeth to engage the motor, so big spring upgrades are pretty much out. It’s runs on ball bearings in the shell, and was noticeably tight to pull out.

The crown gear, sector gear and AR latch are all cast iron and fairly chunky, running on solid bushes. The weak point in the gearchain is definitely the gear above.

Possible Upgrades

Compression is surprisingly good, but with a bit of a normal loss of compression with the nozzle at full extension. About all that can be done there is liberal grease on reassembly to maybe improve airseal at the nozzle.

Fitted a short spacer (10mm in length) behind the piston spring to beef up compression slightly, but given the weak drive gear, nothing too wild. A 10mm long length of 9.5mm inner barrel was used, but keep in mind that preloading the spring does make reassembly a little trickier with no “quick change” feature.

Time to regrease, reassemble and test.

I’ll call that a good result for such a small unit… tested with AKAs to show an overall gain of roughly 60FPS from stock trim, about a 70% increase in power.

Conclusions

Not very upgradeable but possible. Reducing the stock 25cm barrel length down by about 8cm helps with the VE, but still not optimal. No doubt shortening more would help, but the design is such that if you shorten too much the inner barrel is unsupported in the receiver. Might be able to look at shortening more down the track and using a hop up to locate in the outer barrel for support.

Proprietry design means no readily available upgrade parts. The stock spring can be beefed up with a 10mm spacer, seems to increase FPS by about 20-25FPS and the small 370 motor seems to handle it okay.

Not the easiest blaster to work on, but definitely not the hardest either. Most of the difficulty comes from actually getting the gearbox out of the receiver and getting the box mounting screws back in. Not impossible, just a bit awkward with the motor wires running down the side of the gearbox.

So all up for this unit…

Stock trim. : 140FPS
Shortened I.B. : 170FPS
Spring Spacer : 200FPS

As this blaster started out at 140FPS, I guess it’d be fair to assume that a unit with a baseline FPS of 170ish stock would show similar gains, maybe even pushing it up to around 220FPS. But short barrelled units can be finicky and the law of diminishing returns applies.

Not much more that can be done given the nature of the gears and their doubtful longevity under hard loads. Next job is to bore out the outer barrel for fitment of an 11mm adjustable hop up, but a very simple mod and no rush for that.

But… 200FPS? Happy with that. :sunglasses:

Apologies for fhe length of this post, but the devil’s always in the details. :wink: Hope all this is of some help to anyone looking to get a little more out of their ZY UZI. Great little units.

2 Likes

Fantastic results…!!

I knew you’d like working on it…and saved Rok some legwork…!!

Well done…!!