VHT flat black engine enamel… works great! 
and…onto the blacks…
i have about 6 colour cards, but just 2 trial pots at this stage.
1 Quick coat, to see what they’re like…
- is the lighter black…some grey in it. its right on the end.
- is the darker black, very pitch black. it seems to absorb all light ( and hide details)
Lighter close up…
The lighter black is not as stark, it reveals details a bit better , which is good for showing off the details of the shroud etc…
Darker close up…
This really seems to absorb all light, and hide details to a greater extent…
Here is lighter barrel , by darker shroud…
This provides a mild 2 tone look…light black barrel and stock, covered by darker shrouds…
If i use the darker over the Spas pump cage, it might be a bit too dark with suppressed details…i might try a darker black which is slightly lighter ( if that makes sense)…
different angle comparo…highlighting lighting differences…
"like liquid , gets into this chalk…
Weyland Yutani, uses a mag and a half, with every 200 grain block…!!"
I’d feign being offended…
But i know your OCD, is worse than mine…!!!
Maybe…
Potentially undeniable… 
But my OCD leans more towards the minutiae of the mechanical side of these hunks of plastic and aluminium.
I just know that once you’ve painted this project and thrown your samples away, without them to compare it to you’ll sit back, look at it and say
“Yep… that pulse rifle’s definitely brown and black” 
But it’s an entertaining ride seeing it unfold. 
Don’t forget to turn the lights off as they will skew the shade of black. 
It does. Another I go to these days is Rustoleum 2X. Skip undercoat fart arsing around, gloss or flat done. Perfectomundo for non heat surfaces.
Yeah, I found the engine enamel sprays really well, dries pretty fast and is probably one of the hardest paints I’ve used on blasters. 
The downside is it ain’t cheap, it means a trip.to Supercheap and if you geek out with it it’s difficult to remove.
$2 shop budget cans are definitely out… one particular brand, 5 Star, never fully dries and feels tacky for weeks afterwards, even if you leave it in the sun all day. Jet brand’s no better.
Rustoleum black sprays way to thick for me, although the camo paints are great if you clear over the top.
I recently put BME onto this paint from Bunnings… water based acrylic. Sprayed over a decent primer and backed up with a clear coat it’s good stuff for large areas on blasters. It’s pretty much a perfect match for the flatness on most nylon parts unlike some so called flat paints. Unfortunately Bunning’s is no longer stocking it, but I believe between us we’ve got about five cans.
Tamiya’s always good but the can size is a pain in the arse and at upwards of $19 a can it’s expensive.
The good news is DyMark is still available through other stockists…
I did the M92 top slide, from vipertac bargain bin…
piccies to follow later…it came up well…
You did it with the Dy-Mark paint?
It does come up really well.
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Yeah, used Dymark on the slide…
Im wondering if i should put some matte clear on it… i dont want to gloss it up…
Yes I was more refferring to respraying my rusty tractor cab with the Rustoleum 2x.
I didn’t mention that part. Ooops.
Dy Mark. I’ve used thousands of cans from that manufacturer doing Dye check crack testing so could see where to repair and weld it up on machinery. Good stuff. Also used on quality checks on ROH made car rims to see where they start cracking under load.
Renamed to Flawcheck now. Cleaner, penetrant, developer then remover. The cleaner was the best, very flammable ROH would get pallet loads of that from DY Mark for QA on all wheels. Monthly deliveries. Australian made too or used to be anyway.
Okay, progress after a busy morning…
All disassembled and ready for paint. Quite the job.
Interesting to note how the two green shroud halves look like two different shades.
Thought it may have been how light affects how you perceive colours… the one on the right was closer to an open door wirh sunlight streaming in. But in full light they’re clearly different shades of green. Not very good batch matching at the SW factory, I’d say. 
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I was going to say trialing the 50 shades of black as they are distinctly different.
Don’t really like the left guard colour, that is ick. Blow it away and HCG and what was it we settled on VHT hi temp exhaust paint
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Houston, I can confirm we have go for brown… all systems in the green, T minus 19 hours😉
Black? We’ll see.
All systems nominal. For RAL8000.
New colour
trump " emperor has no clothes- Brown"
its a fantastic colour, the best…bigly huge.
You need to be really smart to see the colours, elon designed it that way…
the smarter you are, the more colours you can see…
i see brown, green, red, gold of course…
Lotsa people say its the most amazing colour they’ve ever seen…
And, it looks amazing on my new clothes…he’s given me a whole ensemble, from underwear to the suit im wearing now…fantastic isnt it…
Elon, out of respect is wearing normal clothes, so he doesn’t outshine me…’
Now I know you are full of shit.
I just wasted an hour watching Elon with his tech support shirt on and they are opening up Fort Knox to see if there is any gold left.
And the gov workers only need 2 neurons to reply to an email or they get sacked.
Russia and Ukraine are going to repay 350B of minerals back to USA through trades and minerals deal that is very good for all countries. Bla bla
Ok, good progress made today…thanks FF…!!
All the rigmarole for the other blacks was completely unwarranted, we ended up using the DYE-Mark flat black, followed with a light coat of Tamiya Low gloss coat.
Didn’t bother spraying any of the other blacks on samples, this looked good enough.
Decided to go with the ’ Bitsa Brown", and glad that we did.
It looks really, really good…in full sunlight.
It changes its colour though, like you would not believe…
Here is a comparo of the shrouds, 1 original and 1 bitsa brown…
I think it captures the brown look , in the film quite well…the HCG was an annoying colour half way between brown and olive.
The title says it all…
BROWN Bess…!
Did 2 coats of brown, and 2 coats black followed by clear coat on the black.
Not assembling, until its dry overnight.
When i say these colours screw with your head, i am truly not kidding…
Here is a quick colour comparo…
The above shot was taken on FF’s outside table , in the shade, with full sun out…
AFTER IT WAS PAINTED BESS BROWN.
Yes, it was fully painted brown…!!
This photo below, shows the exact same panels, in full sunlight…!
Absolutely crazy…!!
Complete colour reversal…!!
Its a 2 in 1… Brown bess outside, Olive drab inside…!!
No wonder James Cameron cracked it, with the colouring, and the debate rages till this day…!!
Finally, here is a outside shot, with HCG painted stock, shown for reference…
I wouldn’t have believed it, unless i saw it with my own eyes…!!
I think, we found the 'proper" brown bess colour, with the 'Correct " colour change properties…!!
