Aliens Pulse Rifle gelblaster

Funny…

I saw on the news the other night, the “Collectable” industry is Aust is huge…
Worth Billions.

Driven by a generation, who can now afford stuff, they couldn’t afford as kids…

There was a DJ in Vic, who built a perfect replica of the DeLorean, from “Back to the future”.

Painstakingly assembled from photos, pics etc.
Cost him over $500 000.

" I could have bought a house. I cant drive a house!!"

That beats the $30 000 sale, at comicom recently…!!

I don’t feel bad, about busting open a Hanke in the name of curiosity…

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Well…

Im getting dangerously close, to running out of reasons, not to pull the PR apart.

Kit parts painted black, ready to swap out for the 2 tone grey SW parts…

Holy 50 shades of … @x#$%!!
This is actually the Olive SW standard shell…but it looks bess brown, under this photo light…

To summarise again, what i’m doing…

The movie PR is all black. Standard snow wolf has grey elements instead…spas cage, barrel, stock etc. I’m repainting, for all black look.

@Friendly_Fire did an awesome job of painting mine…which i’m trying to recreate.

I believe he used Dymark flat black ( which i have, and used).
This is actually a bit of a dull, flat black. the top coat lacquer makes it.
Flat coat, on Dymark flat…is very flat. It seems to mute the details.

I tried a bit of Tamiya TS-79 Semi gloss…it seems a bit too glossy…

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F/Fires in the middle ( assembled), my parts above and below.

Near the door, closer to natural light…

50 shades of… !!!

I did put several coats of semi gloss lacquer on… should have i stayed at just one light coat.?? I was trying for a more durable protective coat…

Thanks to F/Fire for the comprehensive teardown guide.
I’ll give it a bash, when i sort the finish out…

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Yep… Dymark flat black with Tamiya satin clear over the top. :+1:

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Is Satin clear, different to semi gloss.??

TS-79 is the semi gloss…which i bought and used.

Easy to repaint / recoat at this stage…

Same stuff

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Hmmm…
Big difference, in the final finish.

Mine is much, much glossier…which i hope the photos show.

Did i do too many coats, of the clear.?
Aiming for protection, but acheiving glossiness?

If it’s too shiny try the flat clear.

But you know that’s dead flat. :person_shrugging:

Yeah, i did that on the SPAS…too dark.

Completely black…absorbing all light / too muted…

I look at your PR, and wonder how you got it…?

Does more coats, make it more shiny…?

Okay…full sunlight outside shots…

Semi-Gloss black vs original grey bits…

The black is a very dark black…with a touch more gloss than i’d like.

Here are comparo shots, to F/Fires handy work…

A few different angles…

The M4 mag at the front…is Dymark black, with a Light coat of TS-80 Flat clear.

That seems to be , the closest to F/fires black…but yet a little lighter.

Gahhh… all this does your head in…

Also, @Friendly_Fire …do you happen to remember what paint you used for the UZI.?.?

Its quite a good finish, as well…

Pretty sure it would have been Dymark… the usual paint. :person_shrugging: but with no clearcoat, IIRC.

It’s not the paint… it’s the painter… :rofl::rofl::rofl:

There’s something in that…

The ‘All black’ PR, is the same finish as well…

What’s your preference, out of the above.?

I think i’ll leave these as is…pull it apart.
I can always paint the virgin grey shells, on the intact PR, when they are off.

Fit whichever i want then…

Maybe its better having one a little different, to the other 2 as being the same…

Outside full sun, is a pretty harsh critic…

I knew i got the shell kit, for a reason…

“Things that make ya go Boom !!”

Whats all this grey SPAS cage, nonsense…??

The shell kit has the bit that glues in, and holds the M-40 in place, while allowing the slide to pump.

It would be a big ask, to get the existing one off…

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I have officially joined the ranks of…

" OMG…what have i done…how does it go back together ??.."

Thanks so much for the teardown, @Friendly_Fire … i wouldn’t have been game to do it, without it…

Hmmm… maybe something this complex needs a Gelball nobody video…!!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Now… have a look at this…

Snow wolf, what were you thinking.?.?

If, you had made it all a nice even matt black, all over…
None of this would have had to happen…

But No…

“Lets make it 2tone grey, they said… it’ll look cool, they said…”

Now, i know how OCD i am.
If i am not happy with the black (too glossy) i will go nuts and spontaneously self combust.

So, what i reckon i’ll do, is this…

-Paint up the now removed shells, in Dymark black, followed with Tamiya Flat clear coat.

-Then, i will have 2 options.

-Re-install with the option i am happiest with.

-Shut up about pulse rifles for awhile!!

So, paint and dry overnight, and see what 2morrow brings…

Glad i ordered the ebay mock M-40 grenades…
The cap comes off, and has a little spring loaded switch.

Its smaller than the shotty shell…so you can see the whole length of the M-40, from tip to tail, when the slide is back…

i’m actually thinking…

rather than limit myself to rattlecan options…try the bunnings water colour spray gun range…with a flat coat on top.

The flat coat dulls and darkens the colour, smoothens the finish to the touch, and gives it a protective layer.

Much wider range, of blacks available…pick a lower gloss one and flat coat on top.

i can spray some older mags, and coat them, to see the final result, before i spray the virgin shells…

50 shades of black , again…!!

@maiphut, i can hear your enthusiasm from here…!!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

I have been dangerously looking at getting an airbrush kit… gel blasters led to 3d printing, now to painting… whats next!!!

I have only painted a few parts over the years and done a couple of rattlecan camo jobs.
The camo paint thing I like but it instantly means the blaster is worth stuff all and my experience with camo paint jobs is the only person not happy with how it looks is the owner that did it!

Its actually pretty cheap to get into…

For me, i got a small hobby sprayer from sydney tools… i think for $40 on sale.
I already had a small compressor.

For water based paints ( bunnings) clean up is super easy…water based is just rinse out.

Bunnings have a huge range of colours, they mix them up for you, and you can buy sample pots for about $6.

Sample pots are in 2 sizes … 250mls or 500 mls. About $6 and $10 respectively.
250mls is heaps , for one blaster…

For the water based paints, you get a very even (adjustable) spray of paint.
It is essentially house wall paint…the final finish can feel a bit rough to the touch.

That’s why a top coat is good…it smooths the finish out to the touch, gives it a bit of gloss, and protects the paint. The colour does change a bit with a top coat…you need to experiment for the final colour you’re after.

That’s why , with the Bess Brown Pulse Rifle… i didn’t put a clear coat on it.

It was an effort to get the colour right, i was happy with it, and didn’t want it changed.

A little bit rough to the touch…but its mostly a display item.

This is the one i got… hook up a compressor and go…!

https://sydneytools.com.au/product/chicago-air-cgf120-120ml-gravity-feed-touch-up-air-spray-gun-with-08mm-nozzle

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This is the cyma mp5 mag, i repainted (painting out a clear window).

I used the rustoleum Matt Ultra Black.

The paint is a slight glossy matt black… a flat clear top coat dulls the gloss down a bit, to a more acceptable level.

Rattle can is fine for smaller size jobs ( mags), but over larger areas, Rustoleum rattlecans can spit, splutter and put out an uneven coverage. This is where even spraying spray painters have the edge.

If i could find a similar colour in bunnings paint, spraying that shade and finishing with a flat clear coat, to achieve the same result, would be good.

That would probably then be your 'Go-to ’ paint, for painting blasters black.

Go nuts with camo paint jobs…and if your unhappy, just go back to black again…

I have an airbrush kit.

I have a compressor.

Sometimes the easiest option is still a rattle can.

No point making things harder than they have to be, I say. :laughing: