Cracked Silveredge replacement

a man in a pool with the words welcome to the party pal

:rofl: :rofl: :+1:

Not red as it melts when it will get warm from normal use.

Superglue, or Loctite 609 retaining compound I have used with success to sort that exact problem in other gear boxes you mention.

Superglue, ya gotta be quick. Loctite gives you a bit more time.

Thanks mate but I committed to red loctite last night, I know of the retaining compound but at $32 a bottle its a bit exxy. Failing that I have some slow setting medium viscosity superglue I can try, failing that I’m putting this thing up for auction and donating the money to the Emotional Health Unit of the Mater Hospital, where I’ll end up.

I’ll pop the kettle on then, shall I? :rofl:

We’re all in there, matey… some of us just don’t know it yet. :laughing:

Forget ā€œ emotional support dogā€ā€¦

It’s time for…

ā€œ emotional abuse squidā€ …!!

:rofl::crazy_face::tired_face:

Split the throttles, don’t think just do. C’mon Mav gimme some of that pilot shit.

You guys are so funny. Good to have a laugh after a *unt of a day slogging it out.

@Jug bit cheaper here Loctite 609 Retaining Compound Cylindrical bonding Adhesive 10ml. | eBay Australia

You only need a couple drops per bush. Worked for me anyway. Hope helps out.

You can tell my 601 Loctite retaining compound’s had a hard life… :wink:

It’s what I use, even if it is blue… :rofl:

Specifically for cylindrical parts, fills gaps to 0.1mm, 30 minute cure time, good for between -55°C to 150°C.

Mind you, the red is much stronger and good for 270°C temps, but red’s just a bit too permanent for a gel blaster for mine.

If you’re blaster’s running at temps over 150°C and melting 601 blue, you’ve got a problem. :laughing:

General rule of thumb is blue Loctite if it has to come apart again, red if it doesn’t… unless you want to heat it up to 270°C with a blowtorch.

Yep, that is what I meant and you kinda don’t want to take a oxy super heater to your blaster to get it apart for a simple o ring or spring change.

a woman is drinking coffee in front of a burning house .

:rofl: :rofl:

That was always the confusing thing trying to explain Loctite to my customers.

Red Loctite is Blue bottle and Blue Loctite is the Red bottle… makes perfect sense!:roll_eyes::joy:

I know, forget the bottle, look at the number and what is actually inside. All genuine Loctite bottles are red anyway. Knock offs are not.

Its going back together for a test fire shortly so, fingers cross yet again…

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Had a small win, after 10 ish magazines the bushing seems to be holding in place nicely. Think we might finally be in a good place with the gears.

After trimming the tappet plate the FPS has gone down, rather than UP.
Was
7.4 = 300 fps
11.1 = 270 fps

After another 1mm trim its
7.4 = 300 fps
11.1 = 250 fps.

I’ve taken bugger all off it, should I try another mm and re test?

115e7d4e-bc96-437e-a0ce-62d59040a0d3


You can usually cut to the pictured blades edge region. But as a guide, this is my starting point for my next 30rps build. I expect my trim might be a little conservative and another mm or two may be needed, so you are a fair way off trimming too much.

It is best to go in small increments, as too far and you will run into feeding issues.

Thanks mate — I’ll keep trimming 1 mm at a time and see if it brings the FPS and consistency up to match the 7.4V.

Worst case, I can always grab another tappet plate.

On another note, this is one of the YouTube shimming tutorials I’ve watched a couple of times in the past. I noticed he does something that no other guide does which is to add material to the front of the tappet plate fin with CA glue and baking soda to get the plate to move further back.

Starts at the 26:00 Mark if the link doesn’t work correctly

I’ve seen trick that many years ago… when spare gel tappets basically didn’t exist.

It’s not a trick I’ve ever had to do, always just tried different tappet plates.

I have seen people add sleeves to the tappet can to do the same thing, again not something I have ever had to do.

I’d guess it’s more a tpiece to mag issue… aps tpiece is quite long downstairs… maybe adding a slight extension to that will help guide gels up the feed tube better

1mm at a time. Proof no power tools in sight

Ran out of time to do anymore than 3mm but getting closer to the 7.4v numbers. Trimming the tappet plates seems to have helped with the feeding, that’s now sitting at a steady 27rps.


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That’s some pretty decent numbers mate, slowly getting there, well done!:ok_hand::clap:

Gonna be hard to beat the 7v fps consistency, that’s a nice high bar to will for, but so close on 11v now

Remember when we used to have a thread on the old Forum where we posted our Chrono results, with the aim of getting the tightest FPS results as possible?

I remember posting my old SKD M4SS that held 280 FPS within fractions of differential readings over 50 rounds on the Chrono.

I honestly think that these types of results are as good as you can get when it comes to consistent high quality builds.

Might be a great thread to start again here, where members can post their Chrono screen readouts in a competitive nature not only to brag about their successes in their builds, but also show off the skills required in selecting and growing the absolute best Gels to attain such results.

Obviously not a dick measuring contest, purely showing highly consistent FPS and RPS numbers, regardless of how high or low the outputs, and the ability to share that knowledge with others to possibly achieve the same results.:ok_hand: