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Not red as it melts when it will get warm from normal use.
Superglue, or Loctite 609 retaining compound I have used with success to sort that exact problem in other gear boxes you mention.
Superglue, ya gotta be quick. Loctite gives you a bit more time.
Thanks mate but I committed to red loctite last night, I know of the retaining compound but at $32 a bottle its a bit exxy. Failing that I have some slow setting medium viscosity superglue I can try, failing that Iām putting this thing up for auction and donating the money to the Emotional Health Unit of the Mater Hospital, where Iāll end up.
Iāll pop the kettle on then, shall I? ![]()
Weāre all in there, matey⦠some of us just donāt know it yet. ![]()
Forget ā emotional support dogāā¦
Itās time forā¦
ā emotional abuse squidā ā¦!!
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Split the throttles, donāt think just do. Cāmon Mav gimme some of that pilot shit.
You guys are so funny. Good to have a laugh after a *unt of a day slogging it out.
@Jug bit cheaper here Loctite 609 Retaining Compound Cylindrical bonding Adhesive 10ml. | eBay Australia
You only need a couple drops per bush. Worked for me anyway. Hope helps out.
You can tell my 601 Loctite retaining compoundās had a hard life⦠![]()
Itās what I use, even if it is blue⦠![]()
Specifically for cylindrical parts, fills gaps to 0.1mm, 30 minute cure time, good for between -55°C to 150°C.
Mind you, the red is much stronger and good for 270°C temps, but redās just a bit too permanent for a gel blaster for mine.
If youāre blasterās running at temps over 150°C and melting 601 blue, youāve got a problem. ![]()
General rule of thumb is blue Loctite if it has to come apart again, red if it doesnāt⦠unless you want to heat it up to 270°C with a blowtorch.
Yep, that is what I meant and you kinda donāt want to take a oxy super heater to your blaster to get it apart for a simple o ring or spring change.

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That was always the confusing thing trying to explain Loctite to my customers.
Red Loctite is Blue bottle and Blue Loctite is the Red bottle⦠makes perfect sense!![]()
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I know, forget the bottle, look at the number and what is actually inside. All genuine Loctite bottles are red anyway. Knock offs are not.
Its going back together for a test fire shortly so, fingers cross yet againā¦
Had a small win, after 10 ish magazines the bushing seems to be holding in place nicely. Think we might finally be in a good place with the gears.
After trimming the tappet plate the FPS has gone down, rather than UP.
Was
7.4 = 300 fps
11.1 = 270 fps
After another 1mm trim its
7.4 = 300 fps
11.1 = 250 fps.
Iāve taken bugger all off it, should I try another mm and re test?

It is best to go in small increments, as too far and you will run into feeding issues.
Thanks mate ā Iāll keep trimming 1 mm at a time and see if it brings the FPS and consistency up to match the 7.4V.
Worst case, I can always grab another tappet plate.
On another note, this is one of the YouTube shimming tutorials Iāve watched a couple of times in the past. I noticed he does something that no other guide does which is to add material to the front of the tappet plate fin with CA glue and baking soda to get the plate to move further back.
Starts at the 26:00 Mark if the link doesnāt work correctly
Iāve seen trick that many years ago⦠when spare gel tappets basically didnāt exist.
Itās not a trick Iāve ever had to do, always just tried different tappet plates.
I have seen people add sleeves to the tappet can to do the same thing, again not something I have ever had to do.
Iād guess itās more a tpiece to mag issue⦠aps tpiece is quite long downstairs⦠maybe adding a slight extension to that will help guide gels up the feed tube better
Ran out of time to do anymore than 3mm but getting closer to the 7.4v numbers. Trimming the tappet plates seems to have helped with the feeding, thatās now sitting at a steady 27rps.
Thatās some pretty decent numbers mate, slowly getting there, well done!![]()
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Gonna be hard to beat the 7v fps consistency, thatās a nice high bar to will for, but so close on 11v now
Remember when we used to have a thread on the old Forum where we posted our Chrono results, with the aim of getting the tightest FPS results as possible?
I remember posting my old SKD M4SS that held 280 FPS within fractions of differential readings over 50 rounds on the Chrono.
I honestly think that these types of results are as good as you can get when it comes to consistent high quality builds.
Might be a great thread to start again here, where members can post their Chrono screen readouts in a competitive nature not only to brag about their successes in their builds, but also show off the skills required in selecting and growing the absolute best Gels to attain such results.
Obviously not a dick measuring contest, purely showing highly consistent FPS and RPS numbers, regardless of how high or low the outputs, and the ability to share that knowledge with others to possibly achieve the same results.![]()