yeah he found out the threading was a bit small to screw in so he had to flip it and glue it the other way
I already made the updated version to be split into further segments because I had the idea of the ability to swap parts of the scope with different designs like an Aimpoint 2000 center part or swapping one of the tubes for a shorter one
I have no idea of the quality, but if itās anything like my Medinchina drill pressā¦ 
my guess is that the motor wouldnāt have enough torque to pull the skin off a rice custard.
I think if and when the time comes Iāll do some heavy research and look for something a little more robust and long lastingā¦ definitely not now though. 
Some are ok. Depends what you want to do with it. Chucks are small so consider what diameter you want to go up to.
Iāve looked at some nearby at Paramount Browns, ummed and erred, but nixed it as the through headstock was too small in diameter for what I wanted. Tolerances on the cross and bedslides are pretty loose but be suitable for knocking up something like the above fake scope out of aluminum or mild steel Iād say.
You wouldnāt be finish cutting some heat treated 4140 in it 
I might still get one one day if I ever get some spare dollarydoos. Handy for knocking up broken farm pins or trimming bolts to right size.
Got some 480 motor cages for gen8.
A couple of projects and some refreshes in order!
Started building a spare singularity box with a brushless motorā¦ forgot how much nearly everything needs modifying to fit and work!
Pistons that fit and workā¦ nope! every one of the the ones I have needs some shaving to slide freely.
Brushless motor needed grinding to get the pinion in the right spot, so far the only thing that fits and works surprisingly is gears thanks to my super slim bushes!
Anywayā¦ my ump is due for a refresher, and two older projects to do as well, should be fun!
Sometimesā¦ best to not ask!
This gearboxā¦ is not the one I tried yesterdayā¦ itās my very first singularity gen8!
Yes itās survived hundreds of thousands of gelsā¦ still running the brass cylinder head and nozzle from way back some 7 ish years ago. But since itās killed 3 red chi hai motors, time for an update!
Yesā¦ brushless 480 motor! 12:1 gears with a spiral pinion and bevel gear, and yes it runs.
The wiring needed an update too, as much I I liked the wet noodle stuff it was a pain to assemble and in some spots the wrong length which didnāt help.
Should be a new lease on life for one of my most thrashed and abused blasters that I still love!
Last layer of clear coat done, all thatās left is to open up the blaster, swap some parts and put everything together.
Note to self, donāt leave green o-rings in airbrush cleanerā¦
Lookinā good @DChapo makes me want to paint something again.
In other news, my gen8 UMP, now runs a spiral bevel an pinion gear with a brushless motor!
Cooked an easyfet in the process through my dumbarsery, gotta love overlooking the + and - things! So it now runs my last easyfet I have!
Have to put a video up of the old girl, the old UMP has brought me far too much knowledge, joy, and frustrations all in the same package. Gel in a nutshell summed up in one blaster.
So the project on my bench, is now a project on my screens!
Looking Good, @DChapo
Speaking of paintingā¦
in the never ending quest for truth, justice, and a decent metallic finishā¦
i got a entry level airbrush kit.
smaller than my larger kit, this is the specialist .3 /.5 / .8 mm kit, for really small fine sprays.
Another spending spiralā¦
it was a $60 kit, and my compressor can regulate down to the 15-20 psi required.
A step up from rattle cansā¦lets see how different( hopefully better) a finish can be acheived.
I was advised to start with SMS paintsā¦ pre thinned, so ready to go.
So, a few quick questions for the pros hereā¦
1: i dont have a boothā¦would a 2m tarp, in the middle of a empty garage do.?
spray is tiny, so i reckon it wouldnāt go far.
2: Drying times, for lacquer.?
I was told for a metal finishā¦Gloss Black base. Metal coat ( one coat only when newly painted, cant touch up later on)ā¦clear coat to finish.
3: Stands for the pieces.?
Doing multiple pieces, you need to base /coat / clear each.
What do you use to hold / support each item, as you spray itā¦?
And allow to dry, supported.?
4: how to dispose of waste.?
I have one of those empty cleaning / spray containersā¦where to from that.?
Lets see if this is a good ideaā¦
i dont think youāll get gleaming metalic finish, from a spray can.
Tamiya TS-83 was Okā¦but iāve seen better final results.
Any other tips.?
That looks awesome 
Yeah really impressive mate.
Also making me want to whip out the airbrush or rattle cans and paint something.
I was just doing it in the garage due to it being windy outside, but definitely needed a mask or respirator.
This was the first time using SMS paint, last time I used the airbrush you had to use thinner for them, came out pretty good thou I think, even thou the airbrush I used was a cheapy with a slightly bent needle. If I get a bit more involved I might invest in a proper compressor and airbrush but for now my little AIO from Jaycar does the job.
For this job I just used Rustoleum flat black as a base, what I typically use as a base, did two coats of the gold, giving a gentle rub with some sanding mesh to take any fur off between, then again with two coats of satin clear.
Iām not a fan of shiny glossy finishes so I donāt use them but I believe a glossy base closer will give a brighter top coat regardless if it metallic or not.
I usually leave overnight to dry just to be sure, depends on how thick of a coat you do, ambient temp, humidity etc etc.
Sometimes Iāll just hold the part with gloves on just be able to move it how I want, over also just used those thin green garden stakes before, turns out theyāre just the right size to fit inside an outer barrel suppressors and sit form enough to be a me to rotate it etc.
Airbrush cleaner also doubles as weed killer too 
Cool.
My first foray, into lacquer airbrush worldā¦
itāll be on smaller, fiddly 3d printed parts.
Thats the beauty of the local 3d seller guy i found on ebayā¦
He can send me out extra printed bits for negliable cost.
No need for me to buy a 3d printer.! He can worry about running all thatā¦
Iām getting a extra slide/ moderator for the SG9ā¦iāll try that in lacquer silver.
Got a few different silver bottles, so i can try a few sample colours.
Was told to trial paint a plastic fork / spoonā¦ big enough to see the result, with both straight and curved edges.
For the smaller bits, i might need to make up a holding / drying sprue.
Dental applicator, hot glued onto a unexposed section.
Half bury it in some sand, to hold it while drying.
Looks like its gonna be a lengthy processā¦multi day to do pieces.
No acrylic rattlecan, speed drying, hairdryer assist.!
I was looking at the smaller airbrush compressor, but my 24L jobby seems to regulate down well to 20 psiā¦
And it can remain in place in my garage, and still reach the middle when the garage is empty.
Played with spraying food dyed water, onto paper this arvoā¦
How fine of a respirator.?
Bunnings cheapy do.? One that i use for sanding wood.?
Yeah, i was told that of the base coatā¦go super glossy.
Sand, prime/filler, Glossy Jet Black base.
SMS super silver has smaller fleck size, and then using SMS clear gloss.
The guy said it was the equivalent of a semi gloss top coat.
Time will tellā¦
But i reckon rattlecans will still be a go-to for the quick easy jobs, when possibleā¦
I just used those simple white disposable masks from Bunnings that come in a pack of 3 or so, still get the fumes but stops anything larger from getting in, otherwise something like youād use spraying a car or something would be best, especially if youāre inside and donāt have a ventilated spray booth.
Those are fairly simple to make though, a box made from particle board or something with a couple exhaust fans on the back and a filter Infront to extract the excess and fumes outside and all your needs is a basic mask so youāre not breathing on it too heavy.
Again something I just cbf makingā¦
Wellā¦looky hereā¦
portable painting booth.
exhaust, and extractor fans.
Medinchinaā¦with quality motors and flexible hosingā¦
What could possibly go wrong.?.?
Yeah pretty much, they all probably come from the same factory anyway. Hobby shops usually have them for about $200.
Vevor for the most part seems to be pretty decent quality, even thou it is just a plastic box with a toob on the back.
iād be happy if i could get 3d prints looking this goodā¦
Visually, youād swear that was metalā¦
Iām sure I have 2 or 3 Easyfet V2ās brand new here if you want for future builds/replacement mate.
For something that high quality, post print detailing would be the easiest part 
Nothing stopping you.
Practice makes perfect.
