DB’s deserve to die…
Crappy leaky mags, and crappy silver paint…
Full auto till they explode, is a suitable death sentence…!!
Then, make a warranty claim…!!
DB’s deserve to die…
Crappy leaky mags, and crappy silver paint…
Full auto till they explode, is a suitable death sentence…!!
Then, make a warranty claim…!!
I think they’re about on a par with the Nwell Berettas.
I wouldn’t buy another Taurus.
My db Taurus is great… the leaking mag is a feature not a flaw apparently
Fortunately I only bought it for a collection piece or it would have gone back for warranty…
At some point I’ll fill the oring with gasket sealant or something but I’ll only use it occasionally for a giggle then back on the stand it goes!
Yeah, the leaky Taurus mags are a thing.
I’ve sealed up a couple of mine and some for BME and they’re fine now. I’m told the We Tech mags fit the DB and don’t leak.
The blaster itself isn’t too shabby… or at least it won’t be when I replace some of the springs in it.
Broke the front takedown pin for my sig 551 as it got stuck whilst attempting to remove the hand guard to install the battery
Not having any luck finding the exact replacement part for it unfortunately
Any suggestions?
Take the broken one to Bunnings and try to find a suitable replacement I guess?
From experience, things like that are definitely not the kind of spare parts retailers will have access to.
Ridiculous, I know, that a not cheap blaster can be rendered useless because you can’t source a part that probably costs 5 cents to make.
I think your best bet is replacing it with a non-genuine pin or a bolt from Bunnings as you suggested. I have a few M4 takedown pins kicking around, if you’ve got an M4 try one of the takedown pins in your Sig… if it works I’ll put a pinset in the mail for you.
I might be able to get one… might. Depends on some graveyard looting today
They are a bit poor design, often the vibration will work the head off which holds a spring, and helps it off then the whole thing is gone forever on a field somewhere… always recommend a bit of super glue or Loctite on them to prevent them separating.
@Friendly_Fire yeah it’s a bit silly that a part like that which I would imagine could be easily lost or broken as in my case doesn’t have replacements easily available.
I’ve looked online and couldn’t find anything suitable without measuring it first which I can’t ATM as I’m not home and limited tools and measuring devices where I am currently.
When I get home Monday/Tuesday I’ll get a measurement and continue my online search as well as see if my m4 has a suitable takedown pin and let you know, thank you kind sir
@RokSolid very much appreciate the offer, let me know how you go as I would like to straight up replace it but if not, all good, I’m sure I’ll figure something out.
Thanks to both of you for your assistance
I’ve got a KELe manual Glock 26 that’s useless because the little plastic spring retainer that sits at the back off the slide launched itself into orbit on disassembly never to be seen again.
Can’t buy them, nobody can source one or get them from the manufacturer… have to buy a complete G26 to get one. So I’m either making one out of alloy or hanging the G26 up on the wall as a non-functional replica. Methinks the latter.
All for an injection moulded part that would cost sweet FA to manufacture… annoying.
Got hold of a barely sort of works ACR/R.
Main reason, takes the same mags as my j12 ak!
Also… alloy barrel, cylinder head and nozzle, m90, hopup and run 11v and it’s a good backup loaner blaster.
Also good excuse to use some of the many spare jinming bits I have.
Beautiful mate
I’m a huge fanboi of the ACR/R purely because they don’t have an UGG Boot attached to them
I sold off/destroyed all the UGG Boots that I had collected, but still have two or three of these awesome blasters stripped out in my collection.
Another great solid blaster that’s near on indestructible and plenty of upgrades available for a really decent quality old school blaster.
The original acr was one of my first blasters!
Pretty reliable and durable beasts.
Decent performer in their day too.
They used them in the Aliens movie, as well.
in the Sulaco scene, everyones still asleep, panning shot over the armoury.
They used some ACR’s to fill up the rows…
About all they were good for once conglomerate Remington got their hands on them and effd a promising platform up, along with Marlin and many others. Oh well they gone bust the Outdoor company and buggered a lot up. Fire sale. Was promising that Ruger bought Marlin and shifted production from what they were back to what they are, but far out the price is not what they were a budget brand(Marlin). Not anymore yikes. Just under 3 grand for a 16" LA 357 cough. Hard pass and barely available. Stick to my Rossi $700 jobby thanks, fits the ticket.
14mm CCW threaded insert on the LH MP9
Can now accept suppressors, flash hiders and tracer units. Low powered at 200FPS it’s perfect for the softer glow gels, and with the capacity increased with the homemade drum mag it’s a viable little lightweight CQB unit.
Added barrel extension with 14mmCCW and lengthened the inner barrel. AK hopup is inside suppressor. Lifted performance from 150 fps to 187 fps average
What’s the best way to attach a picatinny rail to a blaster that doesn’t have one?
For example on an JG Works M16A1
Glue? Epoxy?
The M16A1 triangle handguard splits vertically and is angled on the sides so picatinny rails are problematic and usually not fitted.
If you do want to fit a rail, the sides are really the only viable locations and keep in mind the pic rail will be on the same angle as the handguard sides, which looks a little odd. Drilling through the handguard and using screws and nuts is the best way to go for a secure attachment. I wouldn’t use glue, too unreliable.
You could always swap the triangle handguard for a quad rail, probably the easiest way. Depends on how much you want to keep the A1 look.
Id try and bolt one on depending on where you want the rail, if it’s an M16a1 that’s the triangle handguard and they have cutouts on the bottom but it’s also a clam shell design so wouldn’t be very stable either way, the M16a2 and I think a3 had a more cylindrical handguard and was split top/bottom so would be more rigid.
Sorry, probably should’ve provided more info.
On the underside of the handguard.
Was contemplating adding a grenade launcher if my bing Feng m203 ever gets shipped and arrives, or if I can find another locally which is doubtful.
but it sounds like the JG Works M16A1 may not be the most appropriate candidate for the m203, probably end up looking a bit goofy as well
But I’ll see how I go I guess, cheers