I do remember there was defintely a lever that had to be pushed from the outside through a gap in the shell while the two halves were clipped together. Can’t recall just looking at your photos.
Probably not much help to you… Damn, it’s been a long time since I looked at the insides of an old pre-V2 Le Hui.
This LH Hk416 gearbox is a pain in the ass, so fiddly and with my fiddle fingers it’s an absolute headache
I’ve managed to get it aligned how it needs to be, but as soon as I put the trigger spring in, it comes out of alignment and fails if I continue as is.
For the life of me I just can’t get it to stay how it needs to in order for it to function correctly
That bottom photo is correct. That’s where the lever needs to be to push the trigger trolley.
Pretty sure you need to push that lever up into the safety position above the trolley as you snap the two shell halves together. There’ll be an audible click.
Like the lever at the back isn’t making contact with the cogs to release the gears or whatever it’s purpose is, it’s not contacting anything else and hence its still not firing
Getting over pulling the gearbox apart. Done it around ten times now, no luck
Still have to sort the torch out with a pressure pad and the laser is non-functional and will stay that way, also need to clear a little away to allow fitment of the drum mag. But the sucker will house a huge brick of a lipo comfortably and looks pretty tacticool, IMO.
Just sweating on the day when I can get my hands on a shell from an ASG CZ Scorpion EVO3… the airsoft unit.
Screws are coming out, it’ll be getting 3mm threaded inserts so machine screws for reassembly instead of the stripped out plastic self tappers.
While the box is out I’ll take the opportunity to do a bit of body deadening and sound proofing on the shell, before a pimped out Singularity box goes in for the win.
With that long inner barrel it should be easy to get it up around 300FPS, and accurate. I do love the old classic blasters.
Post Edit :
Holy shit… 75% of the screw anchor points are snapped off at the shell.
Looks like this F2000 refurb’s going to be a bigger challenge than I thought. Damn, I wish these could still be picked up for $75 like back in the good ol’ days.
Must’ve pulled the fkn thing apart and put it back together 15 times in total, trying to realign everything n get it going again
Finally managed to get it going again and shooting properly
Only hitch is the safety wasn’t done properly a job for another day I guess but for now, I’m just happy it’s shooting again, nothing wrong with full auto
Decided to open up my ZH m249 saw for shits and giggles
Opened up the gearbox and had a squiz, definitely considerably different to the LH hk416, it’s quite interesting as it’s kind of backwards to an extent in comparison the the LH hk416
Still need to put the gearbox back in and test to see if I munted it as i accidentally dislodged the brass nozzle in the cylinder head a bit n not sure if it’s back in properly
May have to replace cylinder, head and nozzle if I stuffed it
Couldn’t find any tear down videos for it so going in blind, probably should watch a gen 8 gearbox video or two
Gen 8 compatible gearbox in that… or ZeHua’s version of one at least.
You’ve got plenty of online tutorials on Youtube to check out, and don’t overlook our resident Gen 8 guru @DocBob … not much in the way of upgrading Gen 8s he hasn’t tried and tested.
Have fun with it, you can build an absolute beast out of that SAW.
Yeah I stumbled across a few of doc’s replies on reddit where someone asked about upgrading the ZH m249, his first recommendation is checking the seals and fixing them as can get better results doing that alone without spending money on it, but I do think I may be up for an upgraded cylinder at least after looking at the seals
I can whole heartedly recommend changing to a singularity gearbox shell.
Its a beast of a nylon gearbox, but also forces the nozzle and tpiece to be standard gen8 rather than ZH’s “sort of gen 8”.
From memory the ZH tpiece and nozzle are not quite the same nozzle length and tip profile.
The only mod required from memory is the gen8 tpiece’s feed tube needs to be trimmed slightly to match the length of the ZH feed tube.
Might need to cut the mag terminal holder area off the box too, but I can’t remember… might be thinking of the gen8 ump here… Its been a while!
They are a great blaster especially once converted to singularity gearbox… good seals and m100 with metal gears and a red chi hai… gets good fire rate and with a 350mm barrel you’ll have around 350fps too!
I have thrashed mine… lent it out to so many people.
Actually made a great loaner blaster as no spare mags needed… it’s light… and being a well built singularity it will out last most modern blasters thrashed on full auto.
The only downside is all the screws to get it apart… and be very mindful not to over tighten them!
The on off switch is worth replacing for a decent amperage switch too… I just drilled out the hole and installed a on off switch from my pile of car parts!
So I’ve accidentally unsoldered one of the positive wires and cocked it up
Also need to pull the gearbox apart again cuz one of the cogs has slipped out of alignment FFS
It’s as much of a headache as the fkn LH hk416
Kinda screwed at this point because I can’t see where the positive cable that’s come loose is supposed to go and can’t post pictures for reference due to the current forum issues relating to pictures
Thought I had it all sorted then I noticed the power cord… son of a bitch
Edit: I know where the positive cable came off from, hopefully I can solder it back on but it’s not my speciality unfortunately
2nd edit: would help if I could find my soldering iron
Where in the Blaster has the wire come loose?
Only have 3 points that are soldered with the motor, trigger block and mag terminals. @RokSolid has already given solid advice regarding the Singularity Gearboxes and other upgrades, which were exactly what I used to use in all my old builds
Only other thing I used to do was buy a box full of Brass melt in threaded inserts and fit into the boxes to make them clamp stronger and basically last forever!
You can also get 10A trigger switches to replace the standard old 7A switch to give them more power and reliability, easily found by the bulk online or in JAYCAR for a bit higher price individually.
One of the positives on the actual on/off switch, this switch has two positive cables in in, no negative. I can see which one it’s come off of as there’s a tiny bit of solder on the terminal it snapped off of
Found my soldering iron and gave it a shot but it’s a cheap shitty one and keeps losing heat I think
Need to get my fiddle fingers to act right and try and feed a few thin twists of wire through the little hole in the terminal, twist it back over and around itself and try to get some solder on it to hold it
Pain in my ass
Flat broke cuz work kepr getting canned this last week so a singularity will have to go on the back burner, I was just really looking at trying to do the seals for now, was going to throw another spring in it but probably better off leaving that until I get the singularity and some metal gears I guess