I’ve found it almost impossible to find decent Solder these days 
Since the removal of the Lead content being replaced by Tin and Alloys for “safety concerns”, modern Soldering Wire is just difficult junk in comparison to the old 1970’/80’s Solder that I had been using for decades.
Trying to join two battery wires together on a new waterproof ESC for the 1800mm HUSKY yesterday, I simply gave up in the end and just crimped the bastards together!
I ended up doing the same for the time being, still need to open the gearbox again but it’s been a disgustingly muggy day today, shitty insulation in my current place, especially now it’s raining a bit, and I’m avoiding using the aircon, also havnt slept lol
Yes I have the same trouble trying to solder solar panel connections on the roofski. Fk this here get a piece of old copper water pipe ya bastard I had spare in the shed. 
@shadow187 make sure your solder is like a 60/ 40 rosin cored about 1mm wire. Lead free is fine just have to use more rosin and heat I use 50/50 alloy fine for battery cables and stuff. 320c. Get on ya bastard.
Like this 60/40 Tin lead Solder Wire Rosin Core Soldering Kit Tool 2% Flux Reel 0.5mm-2mm | eBay Australia
Grab this too to apply to both surfaces before attempting to solder 2X 10g Soldering Flux Paste PCB Rosin Welding DIY High Intensity Solder ZJ-18 | eBay Australia
Modern Solder simply won’t “take” into the joint, no matter how much heat and flux is applied, the shit just constantly puddles off of the joint instead of melting into it.
I gave up on the ESC wiring yesterday simply because there was half a roll of solder running off the joint and puddling up underneath on the bench without actually “melting into” the wires at all!
Even if you do manage to get it to flow into the wiring, it ends up as a dull dry connection, which is shit house for solid connectivity and produces high resistance issues.
This was the first blaster I purchased on moving to the sunny state. E&C Value line M4. Some of the fit and finish was a bit rough but a good metal v2 gearbox. Fitted an Optac hop up barrel which is hidden in the suppressor. OAL of inner barrel is ~37cm so it also got a full cylinder and SHS M100. I’ve only tried some over grown Ausgel Ultra elite V2s but it was putting out 330-340. Need to grow some fresh gels and tune the hop up.
Pulled the gearbox apart again for my ZH m249 and upon putting it back together and testing resulted in a harsh grinding noise, only did a split second trigger pull and immediately released as soon the grinding noise started which was immediately
The only part I think I may have wrong is the anti reverse latch, I think I may have installed it upside down
Does this sound right?
AR latches can generally only go in one way… usually spring down and with the spring leg braced against either the gearbox shell or a moulded post.
Been a while since I spannered a gen 8 but I can’t see how you could put an AR latch in upside down. 
Either way, sounds like you’re pulling it down again.
It’s always a good practice to hold all the gears in place and wind them by hand with the piston in and spring out to make sure everything’s working before you close up the box.
Then when the box is closed, wind it again in a free state and make sure that AR latch is doing what it should. 
Been building a NAS and dumping a lot of media onto it to be my personal Netflix hehe.
Yeah I was hand winding it to line the piston and gears back up and thought I had everything lined up and held in place whilst putting the shell back on etc
Definitely something going on, I’ll just have to keep trying until I get it right
First thing that comes to mind for a grinding noise is the motor height, or in this case has the pinion gear come loose and moved on the motor shaft. I’ve had that happen to a couple of V2’s.
Possibly the piston jumped out of it’s track on reassembly too… that locks up your gearing nicely.
Doing more soldering this morning getting some 8AWG wires and connectors done cranked at 340c. I got flow on 50/50 
You have to wait until both parts get hot enough for flowage.
Be too hot for soldering later today that’s for sure so getting it done early.
Pulled the ZH M249 gearbox apart again today, reassembled and test fired, appears to be cycling but still sounds a little grindy in my opinion
As far as I could tell there was no issue with the motor cog heights, appears to line up perfectly, as do appear all of the gears
may be the little white spacer/shim whatever it is that came out from god knows where buy I think I put it back where it was supposed to go under the first/main cog that interacts with the tappet plate, may have installed it upside down as there’s a bit of a divot in it where it curves
Sorry my terminology is ratshit
May have also been the battery as it was half flat and sounding sluggish so it may have just been that. Charging the battery again to retest before reassembly of the entire blaster…
Yep… that looks like ZeHua’s version of a Gen 8 to me.
Good on ya for applying a bit of sticktuitiveness and not letting it beat you. 
Son of a
Whilst trying to solder the switch wire back on the other snapped off at the terminal
Bypass the switch n run with no on/off/safety
“Who needs a safety switch? Nah I don’t need that shit”
The joys never end 
Looks like there’s enough there to get a wire on though… 
Or maybe a replacement switch from Jaycar?
NO GUTS, NO GLORY!
Yeah I think there’s enough room but will definitely be an extremely fiddly task for myself, was hard enough for me just trying to solder the wires back on after wrapping the wire through the hole of the first one that broke to solder it back on cuz I have shit solder and I couldn’t get it done because the solder wouldn’t stick
Need better solder but funds to dedicate to it are non existent ATM as I have more pressing things that need money thrown at
Maybe down the track tho
Stick it in a parcel envelope, mail it to me, I’ll sort it and mail it back to you. Gratis
So what I did on mine, find a big weatherproof on/off push button from an auto shop, drill out the rectangular hole into a nice round hole, and… Boom! Easy to mount it, you can solder or use crimped terminals, and no shortage of amp capacity.
In my case, the blaster came alive after doing this, as it had 13:1s with a slower high torque motor and m100. those 460 motors do like the extra amp capacity.
I’ll have to see how I go, tough times ATM, especially after buying a Sten I probably shouldn’t have but glad I did since we may not see any new imports, I’ll be in touch at some point.
Very much appreciate the offer as always
