Pretty sure the tappet plate’s just a Gen 8. I’ve got a million of 'em. I know all the upgrade parts that BigMuthaDrums put into that were Gen 8. Rok might be able to confirm that.
Pity that when we upgrade gearboxes we get stuck with the OEM tappet plates… no upgrade options available for them.
You might want to check the bushes before you get too far into it… that ground in wear mark in the side of the box shell and piston body may be due to worn gear bushes. If they’re flogged out the gears can wobble around a bit and rub where they shouldn’t.
Also seen these hardened nylon tappet plates, you reckon they’d be the go?
After cleaning up the gears they don’t sit nice and flat, so wondering if that’s a sign the bushes are buggered?
Could also be the old spring on the tappet plate as its pulling on the tappet and twisting things a bit from the tension on it. Might try and find another tappet spring for it as well but will definitely look into the bushes, cheers
Just a tip… might be handy for anyone like me who digs weird-arse build.
Running a Gen 8 in an F2000 bullpup means having to use a Gen 10 t piece so the opposite to Gen 8 offset in the t piece lines up with the mag feed tube.
Bottom line, if any of your projects require a Gen 8 box with a Gen 10 t piece be aware that to get a half decent seal you will need to use a Vector nozzle for the extra length and a few coils off the tappet return spring to tighten it all up.
Not imagining there are too many F2000s out there, but could be handy info for someone sometime.
It’s easy to shorten your own tappet springs by cutting off a couple of coils and reshaping a loop into the end with some small needle nosed pliers, or making your own from a spring with similar weight and diameter.
Looks like a gen8 style spring or the thicker spring type. If the loops orient the wrong way cut and fold to suit. Worst case you get a tighter spring.
The silver one is the original spring, the black ones a brand new gen 8… silver one still feels nice and springy but it also feels a little corroded’ish…
even buying a spring kit for Bunnings will require the twist technique. But yeah cheers
Yeah, just cut it back a few coils… pretty easy with small sidecutters.
Like Rok said if you can get the end coils to align right it’s better. But don’t stress if they’re not like the original… the spring will rotate to secure the end on the post, and once the box is together that post is screw secured anyway… It ain’t going anywhere.
Just had to do just that to shorten a tappet return spring on my tactical tuna Gen 8 box. Easy peasey.
Wanted to do video review of lehui tavor x95 and upgrade the spring along to way. Got pretty bad footages because I decided to keep window blinds open, but I think I can do something about it.
The new tappet plate and spring just doesn’t look to me like it will work, spring is too long and the placement of the spring mounts is way off. Even with a shorter spring it doesn’t look to me like it will function properly
Too much space to the crown gear in my opinion and the tappet plate can’t release far enough to allow the nozzle far enough forward to cycle properly and send the gel
Looks like I’m stuck with the original tappet plate unless I can find a more suitable tappet plate…
The hunt begins
Edit: My apologies to everyone suggesting shortening the spring, you were right, I F’d up. Although I’m not sure a shorter spring will do the job. Might do. Will have to try and see I guess
Gearbox regreased and back together with original tappet plate and spring
Battery in and test fire… …
Nothing
Motor goes to do it’s thing but nothing happens, all you get is a click, click and the motor “jumps” but it just refuses to cycle so it’s not rotating the gears, not pulling the piston back, not doing its job it’s just seized
Assemble it with the gears in and the box open… motor and spring out. Wind the gears by hand and make sure everything has free movement. The only resistance you should feel should be any slight friction you get from the o ring in the cylinder.
Wind if through a full cycle and check it’s the sector’s releasing correctly at the end of the stroke.
Then assemble the box without the motor and spring and check for free movement by cranking the crown gear through the hole your pinion goes through. If it’s okay, then it’s not a tight gear issue. Check that your piston has free movement too and isn’t binding on your box shell.
Reassemble full but try it again with a much lighter spring too and see what happens. From memory there’s an M100 or an M110 in that.
I’d be looking hard at that motor. Spinning up in a free state’s no guarantee it’ll spin up under load.
Might be your motor… it may spin up out of the box but not have enough grunt
…