Rustoleum is good but yeah it does go on thick, you can hold the can a little further back and dust it with 3 light coats, usually comes up really well.
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From your pics looks more like acrylic. That is bad stuff. I could be very wrong though.
For models and etc I recommend Tamiya paints, very high quality. Rustoleum 2x is good for painting rusty tractors. Blown through pallets of that.
@shadow187 that will need a rub back. Acrylic paints and flexible nylon do not mix.
Give me a toot if my advice was shit, or I can pull it in to the spray shop for tractors.
At least a toy will fit 
Rustoleum is good. Dymark is way better, goes on better and not so heavy. So you can do light coatings.
Also get 50 shades of all the colours 
Flat black, with a glossy coat.?
Glossy black, with a flat coatā¦?
Semi gloss black, with a clear coat.?
The combinations are endlessā¦as the results are variedā¦!!
Sorry only what you see on the shelves pal. Black and yellow atm
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Mmmm really wanna but current residence circumstances prevents me.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/airsoft-armalite-ar-18-aeg-body-kit
Hardest part would probably figuring out which t-piece would fit properly, aside from just redesigning that part entirely.
Donāt know why I suddenly have liking for the 18.
looks like a pretty sweet buildā¦
which material would last outside, in the heat.?
I got some ASA thatās been pretty good to print with, PETG could do the job but if the printer isnāt in the mood itās doesnāt come out great, Ive also got some ABS glass fibre Iāve been wanting to test out that I could smooth with the vapour chamber (canāt think of the solvent for some reason, starts with A).
If all else fails the PLA tough has been good to print with and is supposed to handle higher temps just fine and doesnāt usually involve much post processing.
Some nice looking designs for holsters on there tooā¦
MP5K, MP7ā¦ nice!
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Thereās SO many good looking designs on there, most are reasonably priced if not free but some are asking a bit too much imo.
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Impressive, Would be great if it had Safariland attachment. And itās free
QBZās done. Nice result for a cheapieā¦
Right side and bottom picatinny rails for vert grip and momentary torch, stanag mag (never did like P mags) all helps to drag it into this centuryā¦ kind ofā¦ average around 250FPS. And best of all?
No stripped screws!
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Looks like the gears have been rubbing against the gearbox shell on the bf mp7, itās on both sides, also the black is NOT paint, it was like that when I first opened it
Thereās also black marks on the power cable
Cause for concern? 
It still works and doesnāt seem to have any issues, doesnāt sound grindy or anything
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If now issues it might not be something to worry about, just something to be aware of.
Been a while since I touched one of these so I havenāt got much input sorry.
They were a thin flexy gearbox with limited upgrade potential.
Not sure about that black mark on your wireā¦ itās possible it was there from factory assembly and not caused by any function of the blaster, just a shitty bit of wire Wong used on a Friday afternoon. 
But as Rokās suggested, checking aināt going to hurt.
Iāve been into the QBZ box a lot recentlyā¦ there were plastic shims on a couple of the gears in mine, same unit.
Aside from bearings falling out on every teardown my gears were free spinning just fine with those shims in, not much end float, so good practice to test and replace whatever gear shims Le Hui fitted on assembly.
I also had to shim the AR latch a fair bit, it had a shit ton of end play. That helped a lot with the AR spring retention. Easily neglected and can be problematic if you donāt correct it.
Itās not always common practice, but properly shimming nylon gears just like you would with metal gears goes a long way towards keeping everything quiet and getting more life out of your gearset. Itās not as critical an operation as it is with metal gears but important just the sameā¦ especially these days with parts being so hard to source. Gotta make what youāve got last if you can.
I personally wouldnāt stress too much about scuff marks on the shell. Could be oversize bearings allowing the gears to wobble a little, could be loose bearings in the shell, could be bad shimming with too much play. It matters more with metal gears because whatever gets rubbed off turns into metal dust which will chew out your gears and bearings eventually.
Just rip everything out, give it a good clean, reshim and grease and Robertās your mumās brother.
Next project has begun, blaster has been ordered thanks to Rok, getting some paint tomorrow then just gotta wait for all the parts to come together
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AR 18.?
20 charactersā¦