Rustoleum is good but yeah it does go on thick, you can hold the can a little further back and dust it with 3 light coats, usually comes up really well.
I got some ASA that’s been pretty good to print with, PETG could do the job but if the printer isn’t in the mood it’s doesn’t come out great, Ive also got some ABS glass fibre I’ve been wanting to test out that I could smooth with the vapour chamber (can’t think of the solvent for some reason, starts with A).
If all else fails the PLA tough has been good to print with and is supposed to handle higher temps just fine and doesn’t usually involve much post processing.
Right side and bottom picatinny rails for vert grip and momentary torch, stanag mag (never did like P mags) all helps to drag it into this century… kind of… average around 250FPS. And best of all?
Looks like the gears have been rubbing against the gearbox shell on the bf mp7, it’s on both sides, also the black is NOT paint, it was like that when I first opened it
If now issues it might not be something to worry about, just something to be aware of.
Been a while since I touched one of these so I haven’t got much input sorry.
They were a thin flexy gearbox with limited upgrade potential.
Not sure about that black mark on your wire… it’s possible it was there from factory assembly and not caused by any function of the blaster, just a shitty bit of wire Wong used on a Friday afternoon. But as Rok’s suggested, checking ain’t going to hurt.
I’ve been into the QBZ box a lot recently… there were plastic shims on a couple of the gears in mine, same unit.
Aside from bearings falling out on every teardown my gears were free spinning just fine with those shims in, not much end float, so good practice to test and replace whatever gear shims Le Hui fitted on assembly.
I also had to shim the AR latch a fair bit, it had a shit ton of end play. That helped a lot with the AR spring retention. Easily neglected and can be problematic if you don’t correct it.
It’s not always common practice, but properly shimming nylon gears just like you would with metal gears goes a long way towards keeping everything quiet and getting more life out of your gearset. It’s not as critical an operation as it is with metal gears but important just the same… especially these days with parts being so hard to source. Gotta make what you’ve got last if you can.
I personally wouldn’t stress too much about scuff marks on the shell. Could be oversize bearings allowing the gears to wobble a little, could be loose bearings in the shell, could be bad shimming with too much play. It matters more with metal gears because whatever gets rubbed off turns into metal dust which will chew out your gears and bearings eventually.
Just rip everything out, give it a good clean, reshim and grease and Robert’s your mum’s brother.
But as Rok’s suggested, checking ain’t going to hurt.