Looking forward to seeing the finished paint job 
Thats one thing I wish I had more time to do, painting and weathering stuff. If it looks new, it sucks 
1 Like
When Iām done with this project I might build that AR18 and put some effort into a paintjob on that too if this turns out well.
Oh been meaning to ask how those holsters are going, been able to use them in any games recently?
Going great, I was using them whenever we visited Nuketown. The latest version seems to be a winner.
Getting plenty of quick kills with it that you couldnāt otherwise get if you needed to muck around with a pouch and linch pin.
Thatās good to hear, Iāve had a few sales on Cults too, nothing crazy but itās a nice little surprise when an email comes thru about a sale, thou I havenāt actually gotten any money out of it yet cause thereās a minimum payout but wasnāt expecting to anyway.
2 Likes
Unless Iām blind or retarded, potentially both, I canāt find any barrels from Summer Cat, only gels.
Come on now, I think you arenāt as bad as me 
Very interested in thisā¦ how does the blaster actually attach to the holster? Does that flat plastic part just clamp around the receiver? If so, this should be compatible with the well green gas mp5k yeah? I donāt suppose you have a link? 
Looking at it the blaster slides in from the right, length ways, and the brown bit clips around the trigger guard to retain it.
It was on Cults, I think the guy that designed the AR18 that I posted prior made it so would be on their profile.
Found it
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/airsoft-mp5k-paddle-holster
I think I need one of those for today
Adding buffer tube, buttstock, longer hop barrel and suppressor to our little 4.25" SLR ION.
Was lucky to find an original buttstock for $5 during a Tac edge sale
3 Likes
@RokSolid have you heard how this blaster is going 3 years on? Was looking at DTUs that have precocking and that T238 seemed good value
Sold it probably 3-4 months after finishing it and using it at one game. I hate ARP9s haha.
Just prefer a stubby M4 in EVERY way. But that is me.
I never heard from the guy I sold it too. I do have 4 or 5 (canāt remember) optical t238s and 2 bluetooth t238s that are all optical too, the oldest one is still going maybe 5 years on, The newest one is in my metal scar (video on UToobs) and is still going. All are, or were workhorses that seen many games and are still going.
I like them, the quality version has all the same features, is a good bit cheaper these days but is all switches instead of all optical. Good option if youāre looking at a budget. I prefer the optical for reliability but the switch version is cheap enough you could replace it if a switch fails. T238 also sell switches if you are a circuit board soldering wizard (good luck for most of us with that!)
Couple of points while running precocking, set it to where you like, play game, at end of game, set it to zero to release the load and piston. Pre-cocking also pushes the amp draw of spin up quite a bit, will increase the chance of a nasty jam causing PME, and the near constant load on the piston can bend some racks/crack pistons at the rear.
That said, depending on gears and motor in the setup the extra maximum snappiness may not be with the piston totally pre-cocked, the motor under the maximum stress and rear most position may not start and release the piston quicker than having it set a little forward, which also uses less amp draw.
Pre-cocking good, but balance is recommended!
TBH, fast gears and brushless motor, you may find so little difference in the right setup between having some pre-cocking and having none.
But yeah, I like the optical T238sā¦ liked them WAY more when they were $40 5 years ago! Still good value for $70 if you can wait for their shipping which is still around 8 business days from T238.net
Will T238 work OK with a nylon CYMA gearbox? Just trying to replace the trigger trolley failure point
1 Like
Never tried it, If I remember Iāll take a gander, got a job later this week involving a t238.
If it is like the metal box (pretty much are) the basic, and pro(optical) fit with only minor fit and fiddle. The quality one needs a bit of the wire channel removed to fit
1 Like
Sounds like 13:1ās and a brushless motor might be the way to go which also keeps the budget down
28k brushless and 13:1 is one of my favourite builds.
Spring and short stroke to taste, or easy and just m100 with appropriate cylinder for the barrel 
1 Like
Base coat down, probably give it a light wet sand just to get rid of any fur. Just gotta cut the stencils now.
Donāt think Iāll use that Tamiya primer for printed stuff again, seems to only fill the lightest of layer lines, even after 2 coats. Thereās a filler primer I get from Supercheap that works good but is VERY dusty sanding.
