I’ll need to align a few holes…
Rear silencer, with front silencer, and all through holes aligning with the barrel…
Vertical and lateral alignment, all the way through…
It all hinges off the back thread / rear of the aft silencer.
I think i’ll srew the nut on, with the attached rear blank, and then fiddle with alignment…
when its right, a bit of bostic glue gun to temporarily hold it in place, then expoxy it from the inside…
Repeat for front alignment…
Might take a few goes…!!
Actually ask they might have some used rail and rings be good enough 
What ive realised to, with the scope, is…
I’ll have to remove the scope, to attach / remove the threaded suppressor.
i.e. , i’ll be trying to mount it, so the rear of the scope, rests on the front sight of the blaster, to support its weight.
That will hit, as you try to screw it on / off.
So, i’ll need to screw the suppressor on first, then attach the scope. Reverse to remove…
Might just leave it on, all the time…
You can get quick release mounts. Depends how much you want to spend.
Normal scope rings usually have 1 big side screw to attach to the rail, so easy and quick to remove.
Yeah…
The scope is the last bit to worry about…
I’ll see what cleavers have / what it costs and go from there…
No probs, waiting for fleabay cheap shite, if needed…
All these part, will cost more than the blaster…!!
Typical gel, spending spiral…!! Once you start, your committed…!! 
super budget option, but theres no pipe clip that could be made to work?
Look how cheap these are…
and rails…
i think i’ll just order from here…
That’s it. And then…
20mm Weaver Rail Scope Mount Rifle Base Black Picatinny Rail Adapter Converter | eBay
Depending if the heights right 
Those have M-lok slots in them, I wouldn’t use them. The part that will sit on your pvc pipe has the Mlok protrusion. Could grind it off though.
Ill have to sort the height out first.
My current rear suppressor pipe, can be substituted for the other narrower one.
That also friction fits / perfect alignment, so another problem solved.
I might order the rings, and rail, and see which rear pipe is the better fit, first…
Hate to do all of the above, then find out I should have used the other PVC pipe, for better height…!!
Ok…went to cleavers.
They wanted $40 , for their cheapest low-set scope rings, and even more for the rails…
So, fleabay here we come…
I like the sound of $25.00…
It’ll take awhile for the parts to turn up, then i can see about what size pipe to use for the final fit…
Also…my metal dowel alignment rod, fits well and deep into the barrel…
I’ll cut it down to just over full can size…it will help with overall alignment…
Ok…one step closer…
I found a hole saw kit, that does the job, almost perfectly…
It fits with minimal gap, just enough room for glue…
I’ll have to redrill another hole, with a smaller cocentric hole in the centre, to accommodate the nut, to screw onto the barrel.
Alignment is going to be the tricky bit, it is not friction fit, just enough slop to get some misalignment happening.
I was thinking of screwing it onto the blaster, and trying to align it from there…but it may be difficult.
I could just stand it upright, push both down, and hope its good enough…
Or, wait for the scope bits, see which tube im going to use, and go from there…
Ugh…this is gonna take awhile…
Rivi Ayalas favourite gat …
The Brrrrttt Brick…!!
I think, i have my alignment problems solved.
For the rear plug, i’ll drill another wood plug, with a 2nd inner, cocentric hole into which you place the nut.
Araldite it all up, and let it set.
The plug is not a super tight, intimate fit, so there is some room for adjusting final alignment, of this plug, into the suppressor.
Call this , Plug A. … which screws onto the blaster, and into the rear of the suppressor.
The wooden plug i already have, can have my metal alignment rod, able to be passed through it.
Call this plug B.
My 6.5mm alignment rod, also seats quite deeply into the mac-10 blaster barrel, so its pretty right, true alignment wise.
When its time to glue it all together…
Plug A at the rear, has already had the nut araldited in, and set.
Screw this, onto the blaster.
Then araldite the plug A outer surface, and suppressor internals, and join.
Alignment rod, in blaster barrel.
Plug B , at the front of the blaster, supporting the rod ( not glued in…to be removed, when plug A is fully set in the suppressor)
This should align, the suppressor, with the barrel, with the nut…and the other forward (smaller) shroud.
Its gonna be, a bit of work, to get gels out the end…!!
plug B , displayed, to go into the front end…
Hopefully, no need for a lathe…!!
His real life story is awesome
Your MAC-10 nakedness, is offensive to me…
“I’m offended”…!!
yeah, some crims have amazing life stories…
When you have no morality, you are capable of literally doing anything…
I hate to spend others money but if the MAC-x is your gat, seriously look at the Wells MAC-11. The brand has a certain rep, but my MAC-11 has been bullet proof and far more satisfying in the hand than my BF v1 or V2s
i have one of those, as well…
im doing this, for a " escape from new york" replica,
So the mac -10, is the cheaper, but correct size wise, base…
Ive probably spent more , on the scope/ rings/ materials/ araldite, than the blaster…
But , thats Ok…
You only live once…
And, challenges make life interesting…
