Depends on how much effort you want to go to and expense.
Pretty easy to change the spring to an ausgel 1.18, or m90 if you are feeling a little me adventurous. And run an 11v, dont have to open the gearbox and it will be alright. Easy.
If you go in the gearbox, get an orange t-piece, ausgel purple 180mm barrel, green oring.
Just the above most people will be pretty happy with for very little effort and parts. Good value.
Oh and get a black-out kit before doing it, then you can re-assemble it in glorious black with no orange bits!
A little more involved you can get an oringed nozzle for them, nearly always best to remove the rubber tip and glue the one from the stock nozzle on, as the profile is very specific and most aftermarket nozzles don’t nail it. Sometimes requires spacing the nozzle tip with an o-ring to get proper length. Fiddly, but can be done.
Also worth using a thicker oring on the cylinder head, or putting some plumbers tape under the stock one to seal better. Nozzle and cylinder head seal are the final pieces to the seal puzzle, but a little involved.
If you want to do metal gears and a better motor, they are quite involved!
*The spur gear won’t fit, so need to recess the bushing a little to have the spur free spin.
*The motor while a 480, is a short, short 480. Either modifying to sit the pinion down more and cutting the shaft is needed, or there is a chi hai that is short enough and good, 31k neo magnet motor.
*And once you’ve done that, you need modify a metal v2 anti reverse latch to be slightly shorter than a normal v2, or it will smash into the pinion gear.
*Also need to bore out the holes the anti reversal latch fits in, as they won’t be quite open enough for it to move freely.
*…AND… need to glue/epoxy a few pieces of zip tie under the tappet plate so it doesnt tilt and come off the sector gear cam mid cycle.
*I also have a few little 3d printed pieces to epoxy around the ar latch posts so they don’t break and have some support.
*oh, and since you will need a metal rack piston, you need to either short stroke 3 teeth, or cut the piston similar to the stock one so it cycles.
Just do the seals, spring, and run 11v, they are pretty good, the mosfet may let you down at some point, try to run a good well charged battery and they last longer. If it dies, there is a good T238 replacement that is a solid upgrade worth changing to.
When people bring them to me, most just get the seals and springs done, as to do metal gears properly, is pretty expensive for parts but mostly my time. Usually takes a good 4 hours, and not all at once as glue needs time to cure, so it takes a couple of days.
Or go proper nuts, get the MK cnc box
…there is a thread here somewhere of mine.
I would say do the seals barrel and spring, and buy and build the cnc box with t238 one the side while you have fun with it, change over when stock box dies or you are ready!