Old school outboard just turned up! 
Gotta love that NOS 1980’s packaging and looks!
Boat itself has been modified from the original Outboard to Inboard, and only got this old original outboard to fully replicate what I used to own originally. 
Going to strip out the motor/prop/internals from the Outboard and simply hook it up to use as a Rudder whilst fitting out the full Inboard systems to actually power it.
Battery for Scale…
Oh hell yea you got the Merc! That is going to rock. I might need to make a lake and get into this 
Seriously considering getting one of these as well! 
Bit more modern performance than my old matchstick Hull could ever reach! 
Yes, some of them are insane I’ve watched before. They hook. Watercooled everything and they also crash really good too
Down our local Weir, where you’ve seen my pics in the past, that I like to camp out at have seen a few of these things over the years and was always interested in them. 
Maybe the next project once I clear the decks around here a bit! 
Sounds like a plan. I’m looking at the front end loader and thinking dam
Taken a LOT of chopping and fiddling around, but determined to get all this fully modified equipment to fit inside a standard looking C-14 HILUX single cab body!
Clearanced everything that got in the way of me being able to fit not only the Brushless system and Alloy gearbox, but also to be able to fit and run my many leftover Gelblaster batteries and Deans connectors.
Had the whole bodywork off several times to be able to keep trial fitting the batteries and then stripping apart to chop out even more plastics until I could get everything bolted together and clearing everything.
Results are worth it I reckon, looking like a bog standard C-14 if I bolted the original rims back onto it, but like my Gelblasters, standard looking on the outside and pretty wild modified stuff underneath.
Got the 3S Gelbaster battery to fit and able to plug in/run with the standard body/rear box in place, unlike 90% of builds online that simply cable tie an external battery onto the rear tray! 
This gives a good indication as to the tasks involved fitting these Lipo batteries into such a limited space! 
and yet still can barely see any evidence of where I chopped everything out inside the interior to get everything to fit. 
A bit of black paint on the interior panels and won’t be able to see shit, along with a set of Portal Axles to raise this to suit the rims/tyres and that’ll be job DONE for this particular build.
Only issue was that the combined RX/TX/ESC doesn’t come with an external on/off switch, and has a digitally controlled contact button to turn on/off.
Only solution was to drill a small hole in the top centre of the bonnet to be able to operate by poking through a small screwdriver/pin to access the tiny button located underneath… but doesn’t stand out too much and working just fine so far!
Extra added bonus is that the new Brushless system has a higher BEC output, so even though I’m running my bush mechanics reversed original WPL steering servo, it no longer has any issues steering these bigger tyres.
Now trying to drown out the pain of all this work with a few Bush Chooks!
I feel like a 3d printer would make things easier and open up other options.
There’s not a 3D printer in the world that can remove space from what limited room you have to start out with. 
It’s all about removing stuff, not adding to it!
The pros is that you can print parts faster than it getting mailed to you.
That’s true, but my parts are mechanical and electrical, so not things that can be easily printed unfortunately
Simple things like rims and suspension components I have mates who can knock out for me if I give them the files, but there’s a lot of gear that has to be purchased online unfortunately.
ask if they have a scanner and scan the parts in 
Fuck Moi @Maiphut !
Look what I just noticed on these Surpass Hobby TX’s😯
I never even noticed without my glasses on, which I don’t have anymore anyway because they got destroyed in my crash 
Only just noticed this now and can’t believe I didn’t see this BEFORE rewiring the steering servo!
Also just found an AUX button on the side, which might explain why the RX has two remote SMP plugs on it?
I know that one is a “headlight” output for when you turn the unit on, but now got me wondering if this AUX button could be used as a third channel to operate a two speed gearbox servo.
i’ll have to borrow someone’s iphone so i can use it to scan models.
if i knew how to take mri scans i would convert it and 3d print a cut-out model of my head.
would be weird seeing your own brains in a 3d print form.
With all the shit I’ve been through and all of the “every scan imaginable” under the sun been performed thousands of times… I’m already very well aware of what every single millimetre inside my body looks like!
That looks mad. I love it haha Big block Bob under the hood
It is, that’s your third channel. 1 for throttle, one for steer, then there is always a third for aux.
Just need a couple of bush chooks to work it out
It’s only a 2 channel TX/RX, which is specifically what I ordered for these single speed gearbox builds, so thinking that the AUX button only switches a low voltage second 2 pin light output as far as I can see.
Only 2 small white 2 pin outputs on the RX, no proper 3 wire servo output terminal for a 3rd channel, and I’ve already figured out that one is for the headlights when the unit is switched on, so guessing that the second 2 pin white plug is for accessory lights such as spotlights or roof lights when that AUX button is pressed
Would be nice if that AUX output has enough grunt to operate a simple 2 wire on/off servo, but am yet to test its output power.
Front Portal Axle and steering sorted and looking sweet
Before…
After…
Front tyres were rubbing on the bodywork at full lock and under full suspension travel with the original straight diff, which most builders online get out the Dremel and hack away at the bodywork for clearance. 
I love the original Hilux design and will do whatever is necessary to keep as much of the original body intact as possible, hence not touching anything until I can fit the dropped Portal Axles and work from there.
I might have to trim a TINY amount from the front bullbar to clear, but will leave exactly as it is if possible.
Unfortunately the rear Portal is the one that I narrowed and snapped off a drill bit inside the axle housing so am unable to fit along with the matching front axle.
Have a couple more same Portal Axle kits coming and looking forward to fitting a rear Portal Axle to finish off this build.
Certainly shows the height difference that Portal Axles can make to a vehicle over straight axles, and also have the added bonus of about 2:1 gear reduction over conventional geared axles
That’s the whole reason why I chose 4000/4500 KV Brushless Motors for these builds.
These single speed Gearboxes have a high ratio reduction gearbox between the motor and the Alloy low speed gearbox itself.
Then multiply the diff gear ratios, then add the portal axle reduction gears on top of everything else… then suddenly a 4000/45000 KV Brushless Motor is sitting in its sweet spot being able to rev freely under no load whatsoever, and yet still able to supply mountains of torque in a VERY controllable low speed manner through at least 4 different gear reduction systems in the driveline!
Most other builders use an extremely low 2000KV or less motor with shorter gear ratios to run their builds, but all this does is overload the motors trying to pull massive amp loads from idle speeds to turn tyres on hard climbs at very low revs at very high motor loads…,…then wonder why everything overheats and cooks!
Much better mechanically/electric wise to let a motor run free with plenty of unladen RPM and use the gearing ratios to slow down the tyre speed rather than putting all those loads on the motor and electronics themselves!
Guess I’m just enjoying my lifetimes worth of mechanical and electrical knowledge and being able to apply it into a hobby such as this, exactly the same way that I did with my time building Custom Gelbasters! 
