Work done for the day, time to play…
Start some assembly of the Landbruiser.
My finger slipped and ordered some Inorja Sunraysia rims and 5-7mm hex adaptors. In red, see how that looks when they get here, can always paint them something else, maybe gunmetal grey. We’ll see if I can snap a tap off to bring them in a bit 
WOW 
That’s gonna be one Gucci looking bit of kit when it’s finished mate. 
Too nice looking to get covered in dust and sheep shit, especially when those beautiful new rims arrive!
Really I could of just bought the body as everything else is getting replaced. I did look at that and it was about the same price as the complete kit.
Bonus is with no instructions and a hundred screws I’ve got no idea where they go I can reference to the original chassis 
Good bit of fun 
I’ve been finding the exact same thing for years in the Hot Rod Aftermarket parts industry with anything thats assembled in China.
There’s absolutely no standard engineering sizing in anything, with neither metric or imperial fitting these fasteners, just like working with the old Whitworth stuff all over again!
Hence why using different Star drivers or filing down larger sized Allen keys was a very common occurrence in the workshop, and still is!
Definitely proprietary, fk me
I would if I was using work tools, but I need replacements first as they are one time use screws made from Devondale butter
What gets me is that they are actually Stainless Steel AND YET somehow still soft as butter!
Definitely took their metallurgical scientists a long time to develop such a type of metal! 
Mind you the Chillips screws seem to not argue with my JIS drivers so we are good there
I was trying to figure out what part of stainless they left out, everything besides something silver
I’ve gone to hold a couple of Phillips Head screws in the vice grips so I can hit them with the grinder and the screw heads squashed flat as soon as I closed the handles!
I’d hate to be machinery maintenance crew in China, I dragged two tool kits around with me metric and imperial as it was. Seems ike I’d need another five sets of maybe’s and in between kits.
Just like working on other people’s cars for decades, having to guess what bolt was what, metric, imperial and Whitworth would be jammed into different mechanical components over years of different owners with whatever they had laying around the shed at the time.
Don’t get me started about 1900-1940’s vehicles with rivets and bolts that hadn’t been touched in over 100 years!
Is it an imperial socket head or just an incredibly oversize metric? 
Like Doc said, no consistent standards… if you could ask them they’d tell you it’s metric, or their interpretation. I’d love to get my eyeballs on some Chinese engineering drawings…
Tolerances on a 15mm size are like plus/minus 2mm. 
Not too bad…had to bust out the grinder… again One of the link arms was 0.2mm wider at the mount so was binding. Overall the machining is pretty good, what do you expect for toy grade stuff. The screws on the other hand, that’s where I wasted all my time on.
1 packet with 1 part and 1 screw for 4 holes, mmk, what’s in this other packet with 2 holes and 10 screws They are non standard screws, some are 6 , 7, 9mm long variations, I had to get the magnifying glass on them. Anyway it’s coming together.
I was laughing my head off with the screws why I mentioned it. Well M2 should use a 1.5mm hex head. Nope, the larger imperial 1/16th does fit better which is 1.58mm can’t remember exactly, does work, but then they are sooo soft, you can’t use them again. I’ve got replacements on order to sort that out at a later date.
The Chillips screws of varying sizes worked ok when I could find the right fkn one as they were in black. Have some hardness about them.
Interesting experience for sure as I’ve mostly worked with Japanese RC stuff and they are all standard M3, M2 etc etc but then they are dearer so. Oh well I’ll get there, I just need a screw organizing office lady oh crap then nothing will get done
Woohoo… just picked up a parcel bag from the parcel locker in town. 
Get home and open bag #1.
Inside bag #1 is bag #2 and bag #3!
Open up the larger bag #3 and inside is bag #4.
Inside bag #4 is my shocks I ordered in bag #5
I then removed bag #6
So I could get to bag #7 to finally get to the shocks themselves!
Bag #2 inside the original bag #1 also had bags #8 and #9, so I could then get to the Portal Axles in bags #10, #11 and finally bag #12!
Talk about a childhood flashback to pass the parcel to finally get to the gifts inside!
Can’t use plastic straws, and yet I’ve just been sent enough plastic that it outweighs the parts that I actually ordered… which are plastic and metal as well.
That’s coming together nicely @Maiphut
I’m gonna take a leaf out of your book and track down some bolt/screw kits myself, as definitely going to need them in this hobby!
My mate purchased a large nut/bolt/screw/washer/spacer/nyloc hobby kit for his couple of RC vehicles, so I’ve been raiding that to enable to get as much done as possible so far.
Unfortunately it’s a pretty cheap Chinese kit and the contents aren’t much better than the stuff already been working with, so going to be looking for quality 1.5 to 3.0mm grab kits myself to ease the frustration a little bit.
Yes I was eyeing those bolt kits off, but even they didn’t have the M2x5mm shs I was after so just bought an individual bag of them as need about 40.
I have some screw kits, but there are so many different ones it’s hard to get them all cost a small mint.
I want to pull the diffs apart see if there is any grease inside and the input shaft has a lot of play. Give me something to fiddle with later on when I get screws so I can get it back together.
Looks like Christmas there Doc
Yes, another area where the old Gelbaster Shim Kits have come in handy!
Doing the same with all these parts, strip, check, shim, grease, reassemble…sound familiar? 
