Good idea but the outlay, yea can’t do that. Can’t even rob a bank anymore they’re shutting them 
Cheaper to buy the bit you want, somebody has made them.
Should ask those three Chinese ships just off Sydney, Oi you delivering my RC car 
Extra goodies arrived, set of 1.3" INJORA Beadlock rims and 70x26-R1.3 Cling On tyres. 
Meant to be the ducks guts for rock tyres, but will be a while before these are able to get dirty 
Awesome video explaining the rabbit hole and enjoyment these RC Crawlers provide to many people worldwide.
Just like Gelblasters, no they ain’t perfect and requires a certain amount of knowledge and skills to extract the best performance out of them, but is only limited by your imagination. 
Part of me was disappointed when I learned it was just a polycarbonate shell when I was trying RC.
Yes that used to confuse many who were new to the hobby, expecting the body to look like it did on the box… only to open them up and find a floppy clear body in the box 
At least these versions have really well detailed scale hard bodies that look really good out of the box, but also able to paint/detail/modify to suit your own tastes.
Much stronger than the old poly clear bodies too, meaning that unless you drop it from a 10 story building, the body will last a lifetime.
are RC tanks legal? 
Ordered 3d printed bullbar and flares for the Landcruiser when it finally gets here.
DIY Parts Modified Accessories for MN1/12 MN82 MN-82 Truck 1:12 RC Car | eBay
Aluminum chassis might have slipped in as well, oops
When I get the car, I will measure up what battery space is available and get a Turnigy to suit.
gonna need a safe for that RPG!
As per the ukraine agreement, it is now jointly owned by russia and usa…
All proceeds going directly to putin and trump…
Oopps, i mean equally benefiting the citizens of USA, and USSR…
…and nothing left for the people of Ukraine 
Going to take at least 100 years to recover from the crashed economy, corrupt politicians, population loss and everything they had owned being sold off to overseas interests
Doing my head in trying to get the Transmitter to calibrate with the receiver to get the brushless motor parameters set up 
It would help if there was some clear instructions instead of trying to decipher these Chinglish “instructions” 
Transmitter and everything working fine, it’s just the programming that’s flashing and beeping whilst trying different things to get it all setup.
CH1 Throttle is activating the ESC, CH2 steering servo fine, have CH3 for the Servo on the 2 speed Gearbox and all working fine, plenty of speed to the motor, but throttle control is all over the place and reverse is working like a brake at the moment, not reverse gear!
My lack of computer/programming skills is becoming blatantly obvious right now, and reinforces why I stayed clear of programmable FCU’S/MOSFETS in the Gelbaster hobby!
Time to crack a beer and have another go tomorrow 
1 Like
Yea the current escs default to a double tap reverse on chonga brands mostly.
It’s come in with brushless so you can’t slam forward to reverse and grenade the gearbox/driveline.
Hoon forward, hit reverse (it default brakes to slow down) let fully off to neutral then back reverse will kick in.
Before that sounds like you are not bound TX/RX. Power off, hold bind button on both, while holding switch on TX/RX should blink few times then solid red light is bound. Then do the throttle calibration.
I did it on my 10yo 130A Hobbyking esc last week for my wannabe drift TA02(cut sick btw 
), they are mostly copies so should work from one to another.
Try this bottom left
Gotta hit the buttons at the right time and I see your destructions… not real flash. Can’t even find the manufacture zip nada. Most are like above or should be.
Cheers for your help mate, which gives me another couple of tricks to try out and see what happens!
Unfortunately I’ve found that different brands have different methods of programming their motors, so without the exact instructions written in English for this model ESC, it’s still all guessing and trial and error
No problem with the binding, TX/RX are all talking to each other and each channel is operating as required… it’s nothing more than trying to crack the code on the sequencing of various beeping and flashing lights to get it all set properly.
I have ZERO patience for ANYTHING that beeps and flashes at me 
hence why I have to walk away before I show shit who’s boss with a 4 pound sledgie!
That’s why I hate modern vehicles, not that I’ve ever owned one, but the last company car I used years ago to drive to an appointment, I just wanted to turn it off, get out, shut the door and walk away.
But NO! This thing was beeping and ringing and flashing lights everywhere because of some stupid shit that I wasn’t doing properly, so I just slammed the door, left the keys in it and windows down, kicked the door and just walked away leaving it screaming and sooking to itself in the bloody carpark 
Came back an hour and a half later and it was still beeping and flashing shit, but managed to get it back to work in one piece, and told Security that next time I need to go to the big smoke, I’ll take my own bloody car! 
Cheers for your help mate, which gives me another couple of tricks to try out and see what happens!
Unfortunately I’ve found that different brands have different methods of programming their motors, so without the exact instructions written in English for this model ESC, it’s still all guessing and trial and error
My setup doesn’t have any set button on the receiver, only the bind button, but has a set switch on the transmitter, so I might try that, but according to the Chinglish instructions I don’t have to press anything other than set the trim controls and move the trigger then wait for the beeps/lights to move onto the next settings 
No problem with the binding, TX/RX are all talking to each other and each channel is operating as required… it’s nothing more than trying to crack the code on the sequencing of various beeping and flashing lights to get the ESC/motor programmed properly properly.
I have ZERO patience for ANYTHING that beeps and flashes at me hence why I have to walk away before I show shit who’s boss with a 4 pound sledgie!
That’s why I hate modern vehicles, not that I’ve ever owned one, but the last company car I used years ago to drive to an appointment, I just wanted to turn it off, get out, shut the door and walk away.
But NO! This thing was beeping and ringing and flashing lights everywhere because of some stupid shit that I wasn’t doing properly, so I just slammed the door, left the keys in it and windows down, kicked the door and just walked away leaving it screaming and sooking to itself in the bloody carpark
Came back an hour and a half later and it was still beeping and flashing shit, but managed to get it back to work in one piece, and told Security that next time I need to go to the big smoke, I’ll take my own bloody car!
haha sounds like me. I threaten things with a 9" grinder or hammer when it gets like that. They get fixed one way or another
Re the ESC’s why I try to stick to Hobbywing/Hobbyking/Turnigy as they do have instructions that are readable. The MN82 Neebrc motor/esc I’ve got will be my step away from that but I’ve watched utoob vids and it’s a popular upgrade with good feedback. Should be plug and play… right 
Find out in near future or there’ll be some yelling on here
Side note re clod buster F truck you can buy just the body separate I forgot to mention yesterday. It is a nice ABS hard body and around that 300mm long 1/10 1/12th scale. Might be an option. I should stop being a bad influence I know how to spend your money.
Tamiya 58065 Clod Buster/58321 Super Clodbuster, 9335043/19335043 Body Shell | eBay
That type of american ute as we call them (trucks are Kenworth T909’s ) are great body lines F100 type and Chevy K10’s. Is that Glacier (looks awesome btw) that’s K10 type is it? Chevy. Need a expose’ on that when it lands. FMS should be good
Cheers mate, certainly is a hard task trying NOT to listen to your “helpful” advice to save myself from starvation!
Yeah I went cheap on the brushless setup, but for just over $50 for Transmitter, receiver, brushless ESC and motor, it’s not a bad deal and only getting fitted to a $60 vehicle anyways!
It all works fine, and if I get shitty with the brushless ESC/Motor, I can always use it for another brushed system anyrate
All the others are standard electronics, but have some good plug-in ESC’s, better batteries and motors on the way to perk up the standard stuff a little without breaking the bank.
I only got the YSIDO system as I needed a 3/4 channel to run the 2 speed gearboxes, but also had a mad Frankenstein thought about using the lighting output on the stock 2 CH receiver to operate the 2 speed through the light switch… but the power output didn’t match up anyways
Have been out of town attending appointments the last couple of days, so will have another crack when I get back tomorrow
BTW, amazing that the Clodbuster bodies are still available and a pretty good price too. Problem is whether they will fit a 1/18 scale chassis
The Glacier is a replica of the classic 1976 Chev K10 Body style, which was also popular for Monster Trucks back in the day, and as much as I’d love a classic Effy body, they are just too expensive to justify the money I’m looking not to spend!
From my research, that Glacier sticker on the tailgate peels off to expose the original old CHEVROLET stamping in the panel work, so that’ll be the first “mod” straight outta the box
Also got these bits on the way for the Bigfoot build already, but won’t be shopping for 4 links, shocks or driveshafts until the Glacier arrives and I can measure some shit first!
I know I said that I don’t like GUCCI looking stuff, but this model has amazing real metallic paintwork, not just colored plastic, and being a Bigfoot Show Arena Truck, it’s definitely gotta have all the bling components to match, as the black plastic gear just ain’t gonna cut it!
Oh yea I wasn’t far off the track. Oh wow that one will be awesome.
I did get a chance one time at one of my prior birthday parties about 10 years ago. Mate of mine had a Chevy K10 2WD his boss loaned him to get here for the weekend. Full restored near factory. I said can I have a spin.
First time driving a 454cui BB Chev 2wd auto slaughter 2 speed, did rooster tails all over the next 3 hills for about 3klms. Fkn awesome All in private property well controlled conditions.
I was impressed
Well…this is embarrassing 
Was doing my head in what was going wrong programming the ESC.
It would work, then wouldn’t work, could set it and a few seconds later would go back to flashing/beeping and not working.
Just as I thought I had it sussed, it would throw all the toys out the Cot and have another dummy spit
Then this dickhead realised that it has a battery safe feature, where if the voltage drops below a safe level, it will cut in/out and start flashing/beeping to warn of a low battery.
I was using a spare 1200mAh 7.4V TURNIGY out of my LiPo safe storage bag, one of many I still have on hand, and just assumed that it was still at storage charge as I check/maintain these batteries in storage monthly for safety reasons.
For some reason I grabbed a different battery, plugged it in and BINGO!
Everything set/tuned/programmed itself in only 2-3 seconds! 
Put the other battery on the battery checker and red lights/buzzers went off as one of the cells had dropped to 2.6V!
Got it back on the IMAX B6 now and keeping a close eye on it, so hopefully isn’t faulty, but have plenty others spare anyway
The ESC is labelled as 2S/3S compatible, so plugged in one of the 11.1V TURNIGY’s and held my breath…no LUCAS smoke and the brushless motor was redlining
Might keep it at 7.4V to run everything in and then swap to 11.1V at a later date if the need arises.
So yeah, massive forehead slap and much swearing at myself, but at least happy that everything is functioning as normal and am now swapping into the Hilux chassis along with chopping out bits and pieces to allow enough room for the separate receiver/ESC setup to fit in the small space where the original combination electronics board used to fit .
Plenty of other mods to get everything to fit and work within the chassis/body space available, but will still look stock as a rock from the outside
