Found this ebay seller, selling, well , everything…!!
This could be a real Go-er…!!
Yeah its high quality 3d-printed…but, obviously scanned off of the real thing.
As such, it should fit onto the square bottomed Wesker DB blaster…!! ( i Hope).
The L-shaped nozzle wont be as strong as the solid original…but, all its gotta do, is support a Very lightweight suppressor…!
Wont put any downward strain on the barrel, either…!
I had actually thought that could have been a solution (3D printed bits) , seeing that the originals are rare as…
Even if i dremeled the 3d printed internal rail flat, the body of the M92 is JUST too wide…i’d have to remove some metal, from the body of the DB M92, as well…and then glue it in…
The barrel fits in ,the only thing is, it kinks down as you go all the way back.
I’d have to remove a small amount of the 3D internal guide rail, right at the end…
Maybe get a roll of 600 grit too. It’s quicker getting the bulk of the ridges off, then finish it off with the 1200 grit. Circular motion with a small foam rubber block works best and leaves a better finish.
Isn’t there a Bunnings off Flinders Parade? Just up the road from X-Force?
For the Supp, ive used 600 grit to start, then 1200 to finish.
It seems much smoother / more grit removed.
Before i paint it, i want to ‘protect’ the circumferential slot, near the muzzle.
This is going to be painted silver.
I want to keep the black paint out, to save trying to repaint silver over black.
What would you use to fill the channel, some blu tac / putty, or something else.?
The very front ( also painted silver) is easier to cover…
So I usually will do a rough sanding with some 80 grit (depending on the print settings I use and which printer) then primer fill coat.
Depending on how thick of a coat I did I’ll use a heavy grit to start but I usually finish with 240 wet, rinse repeat if it isn’t smooth enough but usually only the once for my liking.
You want to almost completely sand down the primer to ensure a smooth surface.
Then I’ll hit it with the colour, either a rattle can or an airbrush if it’s got lots of crevasses so I don’t get runs. Then clear coat either matte or satin.
Going that fine of grit to me is a little overkill, unless you’re tryna get a mirror like finish. I’ve only ever gone up to like 420 wet, but it’s not gonna be a bad thing either just more effort/time.
Next time I paint something I’ll take some picks of my process.
Oh yeah sorry, umm if you’re steady enough masking tape should be sufficient.
Not sure on blutac, might work.
PVA glue could work otherwise the best option is this stuff for model painting, think it’s called liquid masking or something, got some at home but not back yet, it’s blue liquid but dries clear that you paint on with a brush and when finished peels off like PVA glue. Most hobby shops should range it.
What? That’s crap. .38 is 9mm. That’s not right. .38 is more powerful than a 9mm all day. .38 is .357" projectile diameter. 9mm uses .355" projectile diameter. They are off their rocker or someone is telling you fibs.
Or are they going off power which .38 special will beat 9mm all day anyway.
Sorry bit confused as it does not make sence.
Pity about the 22 part. The Police that shoot there have 9mm anyway
I get the distance timing thing is hard to achieve and why I gave it away.
