Not really… just clean the nozzle and gun with the right thinners then run straight thinners through it until it sprays clear. Anything less is a half measure.
A little bit of extra clean up’s a lot less work than fixing the wrong type of paint finish because of incompatibility, trust me… ask me how I know.
I used to paint SAAB 340 prop blades… mix brands of primer and top coat and you’ve made them unserviceable and you’re sanding back to poly skin.
i realised tamiya sells a spray ts-72… clear blue.
Compatible with the silver base coat.
i painted up some on the cap top, coated with silver base…it has raised serrations, to penetrate…
Also, a light misting on the glove.
a few things became apparent…
1: in order to ‘penetrate the serrations’… you gotta get close, with firm spray prressure. this leads to a thick coat. A bit too heavy, and a bit too fluro blue for my liking.
2: spraying from a distance…paint barely reaching the object…gives the light thin coating reqd. Wether its enough to penetrate the “wider serrations” remains to be seen…
until my new grips arrive… i’ll leave the current grips, as is…
if it ends up to fluo-ry… it’ll hurt my eyes…!!
Even more than a fluro blue, electric ferrari…
Can i join the lawsuit suing them for damaging the brand.?.?!!
They are high Japanese quality, perfect for modelling as by design. Not really that expensive to achieve your goals with some crap that doesen’t do what you are seeking.
Bit like painting my floorboards, instead of just slapping some ole varnish on to protect the wood I asked the shearing contractor what’s the best to use. As you can imagine varnish makes the floor slippery and you go skidding ass over tit.
It’s expensive at $100 for a tin but it’s the right stuff, protects the wood plus you get some grip so you don’t slip while handling animals.
Anything less is a half measure.
